Diving into the handmade design-scape of Abu Sandeep’s distinctive lines of ‘Asal’ and ‘Mard’, which painted the theme of the luxury fashion house’s Spring-Summer 2023 showcase “The Majesty of Spring”, in aid of CPAA. Don’t miss the deets of the dreamy and modernist ensembles that paid an ode to hope and beauty.

When longtime collaborators and couturiers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla took to presenting a fashion show after a hiatus of four years, Mumbai expected to see the glitterati descend to reignite the fervour of grandeur, glamour and grace. And the pioneers of high fashion in India didn’t disappoint.

Celebrating undying hope that symbolises the triumph of the human spirit against all odds, designer duo Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla returned to Mumbai’s prestigious Jio Garden BKC to present a spectacular fashion show in association with the Cancer Patients Aid Association (CPAA) on February 12, The show aptly titled “The Majesty of Spring” depicted myriad moods of the season, which is associated with renewal, regeneration and revival.

Speaking about this, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla shared, “We have shared a long and a very special relationship with CPAA. It’s wonderful to be working together again after a four-year gap. Their work to empower and heal individuals and families affected by cancer is an absolute labour of love and a sign of relentless commitment to the community. We are delighted to showcase our labels at this important event. This is fashion that comes straight from our hearts … Cancer can and must be beaten.”

The Art of Wearable Beauty

The many moods of the season came alive in a gorgeous spectacle of eclectic ranges from the diffusion line, Asal: the signature and ethereal elegance of ‘Bakhiya’; the floral romance of ‘Resham Boota’ and ‘Floret’; the Bohemian glamour of ‘Gypsy’ inspired by Rajasthan’s Kalbelia tribe; the creativity of ‘Russia’, which is an ode to the country’s art legacy. Multiple influences ranging from Mughal and Art Deco architecture, to nature and diverse indigenous cultures and techniques inform this extraordinary mélange of creative outpouring.

Mard ushered in the new season with a delicious blend of ranges that boast intricate craftsmanship and the reinvention of classic silhouettes and heritage techniques and textiles to create a timeless modern design expression. From the understated, pristinely regal elegance of ‘Bakhiya’ and the soothing pastel poise of ‘Applique Mirror’ to the festive exuberance of ‘Holi’ featuring a riot of colours in tie-and-dye, the glamour of ‘Mirror’, and the dazzling textile techniques like Ajrakh, bandhani and ikat, Mard is a fantastical smorgasbord of style for the 21st-century man.

Sumptuous fabrics, laborious block prints and meticulous embroideries are a nod to masculine style in an entire spectrum of silhouettes that morph the classical into a contemporary lexicon.

A voyeur’s trip to the glitter club

The evening witnessed a power-packed celebrity presence with a host of luminaries putting themselves firmly behind this pertinent cause.

Talking about opening the show for Asal Bride, global influencer and style icon, Masoom Minawala shared, “Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla hold a very special place in my heart, especially since they customised the mehendi outfit for my wedding as well! To be the ‘princess bride’ for Asal and to be able to walk to support their cause of empowering families affected by cancer is an honour and privilege.”

Minawala donned a passionate red for Asal Bride. She wore a mirror ghagra from the Wine Glass range. Featuring magnificently handcrafted light and dark gold mirror work splashed across an innovative and modern geometric pattern and highlighted with gold vasli, the ensemble was completed with a beautiful head veil screaming ravishing romance.

Jaan Harry Hines Talbot, son of journalist Jessica Hines, opened the show for Mard by Abu Sandeep.

Actor Siddhant Chaturvedi wore a flared black coat with hand-embroidered patchwork encrusted with jewelled stones. Lined in pure silk ikat patchwork, it was a masterpiece of craftsmanship and cutting-edge style.

Speaking about this opportunity of being the showstopper for Mard by Abu Sandeep, Chaturvedi added, “It’s an absolute honour to walk the ramp for such an important cause.

Abu and Sandeep’s creativity is legendary and it’s a delight to be part of this very special night. I have a deep appreciation for the exceptional work CPAA does in the field of cancer.”

Gracing the ramp, actor Mrunal Thakur, who was the showstopper for Asal by Abu Sandeep shared, “What an honour it is to be the showstopper for Asal by Abu Sandeep. I absolutely love their work. This Spring-Summer collection 2023 is an exquisite and impeccable display of creativity and a tribute to the spirit of life, the power of hope, and the triumph of beauty. The designer duo’s commitment to promoting the cause of cancer awareness and support through their fashion show is commendable. I am thrilled to be a part of this event. The CPAA does tremendously important work in the field of cancer. We must support them and donate with open hearts.”

Thakur epitomised the fresh and delicate romance of a summer bride in a spectacular peacock ghagra. Embroidered with mirrors highlighted with red and pink bright resham colours, this old-rose ghagra features vibrant silk detailing. A pastel pink frou-frou head veil completed her dreamy look.

Social media star Zervan Bunshah and Class actor Naina Bhan also walked the ramp.

Notes on Asal and Mard

Asal by Abu Sandeep is diffusion taken to its zenith. The label carries forth the design philosophy of its parent, couture. Meticulous embroideries accented with handmade craftsmanship are employed to create a range of styles for women who want fine clothing, which is both contemporary and timeless.

From the classic to the avant-garde, Asal is designed to thrill discerning fashion connoisseurs.

Mard by Abu Sandeep is a ready-to-wear, off-the-rack label, designed to appeal to men’s desire for immaculate clothing. Taking classics and reinventing them with a twist of fabulous and a dash of whimsy are Mard shirts, kurtas, jackets, bandhgalas and sherwanis.

Whether it’s formal, festive or wedding wear, this is a label, which is designed to find resonance with men who seek distinctive, detailed ensembles and form-fitting silhouettes.