Luxury, Lehenga and Love: Celebrating Couture in India

Sparkling with edgy details, Falguni Shane Peacock creations continue to push the bar while keeping traditions alive for the Indian consumer.

The global luxury market is witnessing the return of the luxury consumer-marked by a type of splurge or revenge shopping. Experts say that these consumers are driven by the urge to make up for a recent “lack of luxury” by spending exorbitantly on luxury items. Luxury is defined by its unapologetic exclusivity.

Sitting right at the heart of this unfolding post-pandemic couture drama is Indian fashion’s power couple Falguni and Shane-the creative brains behind the fashion brand Falguni Shane Peacock. They have built their brand upon the no- rule rule. The brand’s aesthetic is edgy, individualistic and exclusive. As the designers present an exclusive array of creations for Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop, we revisit their creative legacy.

The power duo returned to a physical show after a lull of two years at the FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week 2022 grand finale with ‘Earthbound’. The extravagant fashion presentation traced an intergalactic expedition, wrapping Falguni Shane Peacock’s latest haute couture offering in an envelope of intrigue.

Variously described as a “futuristic” and “flamboyant” collection, ‘Earthbound’ is born out of Shane’s enduring fascination with the possibility of life on other planets. The collection set the scene for an imagined homecoming to the planet after five decades of finding a home elsewhere. On offer were future-ready silhouettes bathed with crystals, dome-shaped diamante and faceted beads.

Couture Love and India

The signature use of feathers, sequence and prints are integral to the “Peacock culture”, which seamlessly flows between contrasting elements of fragility and strength, tradition and modernity, fluidity and serenity. This is how the brand website describes its core aesthetic.

And it is this duality, which partly informs the aura of enigma that the brand has managed to keep intact across couture demographics. The duality of mixing avant-garde elements with classic components.

Globally, the brand is well-known for its risque bodysuits and flamboyant couture pieces. The Indian couture chapter is more rooted and culturally appropriate, celebrating the essence of Indian families and wedding traditions.

Mounting a grand couture show is all about organic storytelling, large-scale theatrics and understanding of the pulse of the fashion zeitgeist. FSP’s fashion films like the Taj Mahal show are well-known for mastering this game of fashion exhibitionism with the right mix of history, culture and fun.

This year, their India Couture Week ‘Love Forever’ collection carries forward the FSP legacy of ‘Love Is’, in continuation of the indigenous couture saga. With influences ranging from French tapestries and artworks from the Renaissance period, the European architectural elements marry the classical Indian facades such as the minarets, archways and domes, amongst others. This time the designers are inspired by French tapestries, which came across during their international trips, be it the Met museum or the House of Lords.

In a decadent display of motifs drawn from a creative confluence of Indo-Parisian culture and architecture, Love Forever has been hailed as a visual treat for couture fanatics. From transcribing structures of multi-faceted architectural gems on ensembles, to varnishing them with refined stones and pearls, the collection reflects the essence of French tapestry, reinterpreting it in the space of traditional Indian bridal wear. Cropped blouses with sheer, feather and ruffled details teamed with chrome applique and crystal work embedded in structured lehengas were some of the show-stopping creations.

In the culturally crafted realm of Indian couture, the designers have kept true to their tradition of experimenting with lehengas. Staying away from gowns in the bridal wear space, the designers have been synonymous with several lehenga tweaks, morphing them into gown-like silhouettes. From playing with lengths and proportions of lehengas, to adding drapes and long embroidered veils inspired by their trips to the Taj Mahal, the designers challenged the perception of the age-old lehenga. The designers brought well-defined cuts and contours to the Indian couture realm lending the classic Indian bridal wear a universal language of couture.

“This year, their India Couture Week ‘Love Forever’ collection carries forward the FSP legacy of ‘Love Is’, in continuation of the indigenous couture saga.”

Feathers have been a strong forte of Falguni Shane Peacock for over a decade now. Globally, this airy design element is now enjoying its moment of glory.

Yellow Lehenga Set

Staying ahead of its time, whether in blending edgy Western cuts with elegant Indian embellishments, embracing digital disruptions in storytelling and commerce, or adopting a global discourse of couture early on, FSP stands for constant innovation with a sharp and smart understanding of its audience.

Upping the glamour game forever, while living up to the credo of maximalism, the brand offers a unique mix of edge and wearability, redefining the perceptions of couture among a younger generation. The brand has stores in Delhi, Mumbai and Hyderabad-designed by celebrity interior designer Gauri Khan.

FSP has always enjoyed a global celebrity fan following. Recently, Sarah Jessica Parker wore an FSP ensemble on And Just Like That, adding to the list of globally influential women such as Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Mindy Kaling, Radhika Jones (Vanity Fair editor), Nicki Minaj, Lady Gaga, Britney Spears and Katy Perry, who have sported the brand’s creations in the past. To add to it, an FSP outfit was featured on Beyonce’s video, Formation.

Closer home, Bollywood celebrities and icons such as Aishwarya Rai Bachchan to a new-age actor like Ananya Panday with a Gen-Z following, several actors have played muse to the brand.

The designers have also received the prestigious Shiromani award at the NRI World Summit in London for their contribution to the world of fashion and philanthropic initiatives via The Peacock Foundation.

Having carved a unique name in the world of luxury couture and covering a charismatic span of 17 years, the brand Falguni Shane Peacock is ready to embrace evolving and diverse needs of the fashion cognoscenti.

“Globally, the brand is well-known for its risque bodysuits and flamboyant couture pieces. The Indian couture chapter is more rooted and culturally appropriate, celebrating the essence of Indian families and wedding traditions.”

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