The saree holds a profound place in Assam’s cultural heart, embodying the state’s spirit and heritage through its unique style of draping. Assam’s saree draping technique, especially seen in the traditional Mekhela Chador, is a story wrapped in cloth, threading through centuries of history and heritage. For Assamese women, the drape is almost a rite of passage, connecting generations through a seamless flow of tradition and modernity. To outsiders, the intricate draping style may appear complex, but to the people of Assam, it narrates the region’s history, illustrating how art and fashion were woven into the everyday lives of its people.
The distinct Assamese drape, marked by the traditional Mekhela (the lower garment) and Chador (the upper drape), is inseparable from Assamese identity. Worn primarily during festivals, weddings, and other significant events, the drape reflects Assam’s social customs and regional pride.
Assam is known for producing exquisite silk, especially Muga, a golden silk unique to the state, along with Pat and Eri silks. Woven by skilled Assamese artisans, these fabrics are celebrated for their durability, richness, and distinctive colours. Silk in Assamese sarees has not only been a marker of beauty but also a symbol of prosperity. In earlier times, a woman’s ability to weave was greatly esteemed, and even today, families cherish heirloom Mekhela Chador sets as prized possessions, handed down through generations.
One of the unique aspects of this draping style is the absence of extensive pleats at the waist, a departure from most Indian sarees. The simplicity of the drape, combined with its intricate detailing, ensures that the look is both comfortable and regal.
The symbolic elements in the Assamese draping style go beyond just fabric. For instance, traditional motifs like jaapi (conical hats), peacocks, and rhinos, along with geometric and floral designs, often adorn the fabric. Each motif tells a story of the Assamese lifestyle and its harmonious connection with nature. Wearing the Mekhela Chador isn’t merely about following tradition; it’s about celebrating the land, its flora and fauna, and the Assamese spirit.
How to Drape the Mekhela Chador: A Step-by-Step Guide
The process of draping the Mekhela Chador combines simplicity with grace, and each fold adds to its unique charm. Here’s a guide to mastering this beautiful Assamese saree draping style:
- Draping the Mekhela: Start with the Mekhela, a cylindrical piece that wraps around the lower body. Similar to a sarong, it creates a flowing silhouette. Wrap it around your waist and tuck it securely, allowing the fabric to cascade gracefully.
- Adding the Chador: The Chador is draped over the upper body. Begin by tucking one end of the Chador at your waist, then bring it over your shoulder, creating elegant pleats. These pleats add volume and grace to the drape.
- Finishing Touches: The pallu can be left hanging or elegantly draped across the front. Assamese women often secure it without pins, relying on precise tucking to hold it in place. Some add a traditional ornament, like a keru or a brooch at the shoulder for embellishment.
Jewellery, particularly gold ornaments, accentuates the Mekhela Chador. Pieces like dholbiri (earrings), jonbiri (necklace), and gamkharu (bracelets) are popular. Often passed down through families, these accessories carry both aesthetic and emotional value.
Modern Heirlooms
As with many traditional garments, the Assamese saree has evolved to embrace the shifting tides of fashion. While the Mekhela Chador remains quintessentially Assamese, modern interpretations have introduced variations in fabric and style. For instance, contemporary Mekhela Chadors may incorporate materials like chiffon and georgette, which offer a lighter, more fluid drape, appealing to younger generations.
The younger generation, while adopting contemporary styles, has also begun to rediscover pride in traditional clothing. This revival has led to a surge in demand for handwoven Mekhela Chador, inspiring artisans to return to traditional weaving methods. Social media has further catalysed this shift, with younger Assamese women proudly showcasing their heritage on global platforms, reintroducing Assam’s sartorial charm to a worldwide audience.
In its simplicity, it captures the essence of Assamese culture while evolving to meet the demands of a new era. As the Mekhela Chador finds its place on runways and in wardrobes around the world, it continues to inspire, inviting those who wear it to embrace Assam’s heritage and tradition. For anyone who dons the Mekhela Chador, the experience is a tribute to Assam’s legacy. The drape, as ancient as it is timeless, offers a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Assam’s identity, weaving a story that’s as enduring as the fabric itself.
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