The Charisma of K-Beauty

From simple ingredients like fermented rice water to peculiar elements like snail mucus – delve into the world of Korean skincare that has given generations of women glass-like skin and captured the global beauty market. 

Lately, if you have been enamoured by glass skin – plump and glowing in all its glory – you are not the only one! For decades, Korean women have had envy-worthy luminous skin that looks young and healthy at every age. While some might naively thank their terrific genes for such glow, the secret lies in their intensive skincare routines which is enriched, elusive to the outer world. 

Although K-Beauty gained momentum in the global beauty market rather recently, it has been weaving wonders for generations of Korean women who believe in following a rigorous skincare regime from a fairly young age. From double cleansing, exfoliating and toning to using hydrating essences, sunscreens and moisturisers – even an elementary Korean skincare routine has six to seven steps. However, this does not imply slathering random substances on your skin; K-Beauty is all about tailoring a balanced regimen, including essential ingredients and formulations, which target different skin concerns at every step. The very essence of such well-maintained skin of Korean women lies in the key ingredients of each product that has gained international limelight and is, thus, favoured by many global beauty brands today. 

Here is a lowdown of the hero ingredients of Korean skincare that can be incorporated into your daily routines to get that flawless and ageless glow.

1. Green Tea

The ingredient that tops this list is the simplest and most underrated ‘green tea’, made from the leaves of the Camellia Sinensis plant. Packed with natural antioxidants, this powerful anti-inflammatory agent can be found in most households today. Vastly popular in the healthcare industry for fuelling metabolism, green tea also possesses soothing properties that aid agitated and acne-prone skin. While drinking this healthy tonic is excellent for your body’s internal functions, applying it on your skin as a topical treatment can reduce breakouts and dark circles. In fact, an article published in the Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science states that the caffeine content in green tea can constrict the blood vessels to reduce swelling and inflammation. So if you have sensitive or irritated skin, green tea can be a game changer if incorporated into your skincare routine. 

How to use: One of the best ways to use green tea is in the form of a toner. The Isntree Green Tea Fresh Toner is one of the most popular Korean favourites that has a hydrating formulation of hyaluronic acid and Centella asiatica – making it a super calming potion perfect for daily use. The Etude House SoonJung 10 Free Moist Emulsion is another well-known K-Beauty pick that has squalane, glycerin and green tea leaf extract as hero ingredients for all-day moisturisation. However, if you do wish to use it in its natural form, it is best to make green tea at home and store it in a spray bottle in cold temperatures. 

2. Centella Asiatica

Hailed as a holy grail in the beauty industry, Centella asiatica, commonly known as ‘cica’ or Indian ‘gotu kola’ is indigenous to Southeast Asia, the Indian subcontinent, parts of Australia, and the wetland regions of Southeast America. This aquatic plant is a time-tested dermatological medicine known for its anti-inflammatory properties. Cica is one of the ingredients that has helped Korean women retain skin lustre by boosting collagen production – a natural protein present in our skin, tissues and bones. 

How to use: Cica when paired with the right ingredients can work wonders on the skin by helping with detoxification and healing any irritation. When looking for effective Korean products enriched with cica, Skin1004 Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum tops the list! Formulated with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and Japonica leaf extract, it is not only lightweight but also gives a dewy look, perfect for dry skin. Another great way of incorporating cica in your skincare routine is through a sunscreen, like the Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Sun Cream SPF50+, enhanced with niacinamide, birch sap, allantoine, liquorice and hyaluronic acid. It has a creamy consistency that helps in keeping skin soft and glowing while reducing redness. 

3. Ginseng

By now, it is established that Korean skincare relies more on natural ingredients instead of artificial chemicals. Ginseng is the name given to the roots of plants in the Genus Panax family and has been a part of traditional Asian medicine for centuries. Ginseng which is high in antioxidants, protects the skin from harmful UV rays and also reduces dark spots, fine lines and wrinkles. This underrated herb may be hiding behind the curtains on a global level but in Korean households, it is equivalent to a talisman!

How to use: The best and the most recommended way to use this magical root extract is by pairing it with a sunscreen, as its key function is to protect from radical damage. The Ginseng Moist Sun Serum SPF 50+ from the K-Beauty brand Beauty of Joseon, is one such investment-worthy sunblock that also has hydrating components like niacinamide. Other Korean favourites like the I’m From Ginseng Mask and Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water also have nourishing formulas and antioxidant properties that enhance radiance, and are safe for all skin types. 

4. Rice Ferment

Fermented products are a Korean speciality that is prevalent not only in their diet but also in their skincare regime. However, in the world of K-Beauty, it is fermented rice water that has stolen the show. Used for decades in Korean households, fermented rice water is rich in vitamins and minerals. The ingredient is known for tightening skin by minimising large pores and can be used as an anti-ageing agent as well as to treat acne.

How to use: The most effective way to use fermented rice water is as a toner. It can be made at home by soaking washed rice overnight and refrigerating it. But homemade rice water does not have a long shelf life, which is why there are multiple ready-made products available in the market today. The Numbuzin No. 3 Super Glowing Essence is a top-charting elixir that is formulated with almost fifty ingredients. This not only includes hydrating agents like niacinamide and glycerin, but also other ferments like grape ferment extract, ​soybean ferment, ginseng root ferment filtrate and more. Use it on your face after double cleansing and top it off with a moisturiser. 

5. Snail Mucin 

Korean skincare lives up to its reputation of including atypical elements through the use of snail mucin aka the natural slime released by snails. In ancient Greek, this was used to treat inflammation before it entered the realm of K-Beauty. Rich in proteins, enzymes, peptides and minerals, gelatinous snail mucus is now used as a topical skin treatment to fight signs of ageing and general skin concerns like acne and redness. 

How to use: Though snail mucin is a blockbuster trend in the beauty industry at the moment and is considered to be gentle, it is best to do a patch test before routine use. The most trending product is the CosRx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence, packed with a whopping ninety-six percent snail secretion filtrate. It also has hyaluronate and allantoine to help with moisture retention, calming irritation and barrier repair. Like any other essence, use   it on your face after cleansing and top it off with a mild moisturiser. 

6. Retinoids

Derivatives of vitamin A – Retinol and Retinal in skincare are like Midas touch, and Koreans have been aware of these anti-ageing wizards for a long time! They are key in boosting cell turnover, meaning, they actively help in skin renewal. The secret behind such fabulous results of retinoids on Korean women comes from the fact that they do not wait to reach their thirties to use retinoids, and start from their early twenties. This gives the agents more time to show visible results by the time the skin starts to mature. Retinoids not only help with skin elasticity but also evens out skin tone, leaving a radiant glow. 

How to use: Due to retinoids’ anti-wrinkle properties, it is best to incorporate them into your eye cream, as the under-eye area shows the first signs of ageing. One of the most-favoured Korean products is the Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Cream: Ginseng + Retinal. Developed with Panax ginseng, cocoa extra and more hydrating ingredients, this repair emulsion is best used at night before going to bed. Iope’s 0.1% Retinol Expert is another Korean favourite serum that contains hyaluronic acid. However, no matter what form of retinoids you use, it is essential to never skip SPF to protect your sensitive skin against UV rays, even on days when it is not sunny.

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