With couture-esque visual appeal, elevated creativity and a free-spirited vibe, costume jewellery is increasingly gaining favour among the Instagram generation of brides, who prefer personalised and unique jewellery pieces.

“I had an exciting experience when I met a bride-to-be, who wanted to wear her mother’s wedding jewellery and a Kanjeevaram sari. She wanted to give a slightly modern touch to the entire look. So, instead of the traditional hairpins for the braid, we made birds and butterflies with little tassels hanging over jasmine flowers. The result was sheer visual drama. And as it was a day wedding, she also incorporated a pair of customised sunglasses. This look was like a breath of fresh air,” recalls Kavya Potluri, a Hyderabad-based jewellery designer.

What explains the shift in consumer sentiments? What are the factors driving demand for creative and couture-esque costume jewellery? How is the spectrum of contemporary costume jewellery evolving with high-on-design yet smart, wearable and stress-free options? Diving into the paradigm of market innovation and artistic explosion are experts.

Potluri credits the shifting trajectory of consumer taste and sentiments, slowly evolving from fine jewellery to costume jewellery to not only its budget-friendly incentive but also because of the freedom that it allows wearers to don trendier options. “It has much more drama when compared to what fine jewellery can offer. As it’s the wedding season, I am interacting with many brides and grooms, and their perspective is very different from what I imagined them to be,” explains Potluri.

Agrees Ankit Khullar of the label Purab Paschim by Ankit Khullar, as he says, “Creating a statement and practical thinking is what drives the mind of our smart consumers.”Contemporary designs in the increasingly flourishing costume-jewellery landscape also offer more refinement and realism in terms of the pleces being closer to “real-looking jewels”, explains Khullar. He adds that being budget-friendly and convenient to carry are the biggest factors that have led to the shift in consumer mindset.

“Women, today, are more inclined towards completing their looks and creating statements than sticking to precious fine jewellery. Logistically, our pieces are either crafted in pure silver or gold-plated but there are no government restrictions involved, which however need to be taken care of while travelling with fine jewellery,” says Khullar, whose Delhi-based brand lends a contemporary twist to royalty-inspired pieces.

In fact, hassle-free logistics has been a dominant driver of demand for costume jewellery. As Potluri explains that initially this trend started because it’s easier and safer to travel with costume jewellery as compared to fine jewellery.

However, the paradigm is now an evolved spectrum. With more and more players coming into the segment, the luxury fashion or couture-esque costume jewellery space is increasingly a fertile field of experimental design, artistic temperament and rule-breaking moulds. With consumers demanding out-of-the-box designs for special occasions, present-day costume jewellery exists as a parallel mainstay alongside the precious fine-jewellery space, with the growth having been organic and in sync with subtle-yet-sensational taste of the times. Naturally, brands too have been raising the bar with avant-garde designs set in a language of easygoing chic.

“Today, there are exciting brands in this segment doing fantastic work by producing creative designs that people naturally prefer over fine jewellery as it’s much more fun to wear. Also, today, everyone wants to make a loud statement with what they wear,” concurs Potluri.

The Bridal Spectrum

“When it comes to bridal-worthy costume baubles, I believe that the choice ultimately depends on the bride’s personal style and preferences,” says Akanksha Arora, CEO, Tribe Amrapali.

Polki and jadau jewellery are time-tested traditional choices that will continue to sway the senses with their timeless and elegant look. Diamonds and pearls are classic and versatile options, which can be worn again and again even after the wedding day.

“Polki is a show-stealer when it comes to bridal wear. From a traditional bridal look involving extreme Indian craftsmanship to contemporary bridal wear, polki complements both styles,” explains Khullar.

“Evergreen styles like polki and kundan-studded jewels never cease to charm. In fact, pastel-toned jewellery punctuated with an Indian touch and kundan work has been one of our key sellers,” says Vivek Ramabhadran, founder and CEO, Aulerth, a Gurugram-based multi-design house of couture-inspired, conscious jewellery.

“However, this wedding season, iconic statement jewels that are dainty yet intricate are doing the rounds. Intricate craftsmanship, durability, versatility, and state-of-the-art design aesthetics are some of the key forces behind every purchase this season,” adds Ramabhadran.

“However, I also think that it’s important to consider the quality of the jewellery and one that narrates a story. Even if it’s costume jewellery, it should integrate the one-of-a-kind special feel for the bride’s precious moments. Ultimately, the most important thing is that they feel beautiful and confident on their big day,” elucidates Arora.

Luxury fashion jewels and destination weddings

Khullar states that the demand for and the value of costume jewellery is seen to be appreciating in terms of destination weddings.

“The market for fashion jewellery has expanded in the last couple of years and the choices offered to consumers are almost countless. These infinite jewellery options in the non-precious segment have made it an easier fit for destination celebrations too. When it comes to ease of travel, the fact that we use recycled metals to create our jewellery as opposed to gold makes our pieces easier to travel with in terms of custom restrictions as well,” explains Ramabhadran. Arora deconstructs the phenomenon of luxury costume jewels at destination weddings: Destination weddings often have a more relaxed and informal vibe, which allows for more creativity and experimentation when it comes to wedding attire and accessories. Destination weddings often take place in exotic locations, providing the perfect backdrop for statement jewellery. Today, the rise of social media has also played a significant role in driving the trend of luxury fashion and costume jewels at destination weddings. Brides-to-be are increasingly turning to Instagram and Pinterest for inspiration, and they are often drawn to the glamorous looks showcased by key opinion-drivers. Alongside, brides are increasingly looking for pieces that reflect their individual style and personality, rather than simply following the latest available options.

Potluri explains that for luxury fashion jewellery brands, the worth mainly comes from the designs and they can only sustain in this demanding segment through rigorous creativity. “So, conversations at weddings have evolved from ‘Oh wow, she’s wearing so many diamondsʼ to ‘Oh wow, only she can carry this beautiful design.’ Today, the trend is to make a statement everyday,” she adds.

Agrees Ramabhadran, as he says, “People are picking jewels that they can wear beyond wedding functions. We have observed that clients are shifting their gaze towards buying jewels that are high on design and made consciously.” Some of the brand’s popular picks are the Rumeli Drop Earrings designed by JJ Valaya, Gulmohar Floral Drops designed by Tribe Amrapali, and Pakeezah Kundan Bangle designed by Suneet Varma. Ramabhadran informs that these are crafted with precision and finesse, and created leveraging the Aulerth philosophy of being intelligently mindful.

We asked experts to share ideas on curating a costume-jewel look for summer destination weddings

Summer weddings are all about feeling alive and playful. It’s not only about the pastel Indian outfits but also about the vibrant and lightweight jewellery pieces, which you can style and stack at multiple occasions. Jewellery with colourful stones and enamelling work by Tribe Amrapali make for the perfect pieces to pair with your light and flowy monochrome silhouettes and accentuate your overall look.
– Akanksha Arora, CEO, Tribe Amrapali

I love headpieces and earcuffs with some rings as they are convenient, stylish, and super-dramatic, and these are ideal accessories during summer because you would want to avoid wearing anything weighty on your neck or heavy ear danglers, as they can get irksome. So, during the day, stick to a pair of stylish sunglasses and maybe a couple of rings to go with it.
– Kavya Potluri, founder, Kavya Potluri

We believe in functional fashion and repurposing. Some of our signature pieces from Tribe Amrapali and Suneet Varma’s collections have multi-purpose pieces that could be worn and styled in varied ways-perfect for destination weddings. For instance, the Iris Necklace and Hairband by Suneet Varma can be worn as a neckpiece with Indian and Western outfits; and, at the same time, the piece can be detached easily to be styled as a regal hair accessory. Similarly, Tribe Amrapali’s Valley Of Flowers Choker and Bracelet is a beautiful contemporary manifestation of the traditional navratna that can be worn as a statement choker or a bracelet.
– Vivek Ramabhadran, founder and CEO, Aulerth