Fluid, fuss-free and new-age – Antar-Agni’s creations continue to push the bar in the Indian menswear realm with innovative designs.

Banking on the fabric’s natural ebb and flow for his designs, Antar-Agni’s Ujjawal Dubey has carved out a space for himself in Indian menswear. Characterised by edgy drapes, asymmetrical cuts and experimental layering, the label has been at the forefront of fluid fashion for almost a decade. Read along as the design mastermind breaks down the evolution of menswear in India, the inspiration behind his creations and more.

FL: Tell us about your journey of becoming a menswear designer. What sparked your interest in the luxury design industry? 

UD: I never initially thought of becoming a clothing designer. During my time in design school, I delved into various areas, including textiles, where I discovered the essence of functional design. Through this exploration, I found a passion for working with clothing, with my primary focus always being on the final outcome of the fabric. Even today,  I view myself as a designer, with clothing as my chosen medium. At Antar-Agni, our emphasis continues to be on design rather than fleeting trends.

FL: Antar-Agni has been at the forefront of gender-fluid clothing in India. What inspired you to create atypical menswear in a market where people can be conservative?

UD: We made clothing that we believed was lacking in the market or needed a change. It was overwhelming to see men embrace this new language of clothing. Our focus has always been and still remains on producing exceptional products; who chooses to wear them is a different story. We strive to maintain fluidity in our creations, consciously avoiding confinement to any specific standard.

FL: What inspires your designs? Are there particular cultural influences or historical periods that resonate with you?

UD: Inspiration for me comes from a myriad of sources, such as architecture, music, movies, photography, history, and the fabrics that I have at hand. It encompasses anything and everything around us. In urban India, people are often hesitant to wear certain colours, whereas in small towns, people fearlessly embrace vibrant hues. The amalgamation of that freedom, coupled with jugaad, is a driving force for us. The street style in India is also something that I am drawn to. What fascinates me about streetwear is the inherent freedom it embodies. We strive to infuse this liberating spirit into our work, from conception to design, sketch, and overall mood.

FL: Walk us through your creative process. How do you go from an initial idea to a finished garment?

UD: The creative process is to not follow the standard method. We work on the mood period we are in instead of a particular mood board and imbibe everything we go through during that specific period. The tangible step starts with playing with the textile and fabric, which later directs us to what it wants to be moulded into within our framework of the mood.

FL: Your designs are renowned for shaking things up in the menswear realm. How do you balance innovation and tradition in your work?

UD: At Antar-Agni, we love paradoxes. We sometimes define ourselves as a paradox of minimally maximal. Our endeavour is always to find a balance between the new age and traditions, between structure and fluidity. These become a part of everyday us. The person or the personality and individuality remain constant throughout the mood we work on, and that plays a crucial part.

FL: Considering that you incorporate select statement womenswear silhouettes into your collection, how does your approach to designing women’s pieces differ from your process for creating menswear?

UD: The process is the same; it is the fabric that guides us to mould it into what it wants to be. As mentioned, the body happens to be our canvas, and the approach remains the same for both men and women. We see Antar-Agni women with an alternative perspective, which helps us refine and define the boundary-less work for womenswear. 

FL: How has Indian culture and heritage shaped your approach to fashion?

UD: Indian culture and heritage have shaped us into the people we are. The perspective of looking at fabrics, drapes and layers all come from India. The acceptance of everything as-it-is is a big drive for us at Antar-Agni. We stray away from any binding concepts. Our inspiration stems from diverse cultures across the country, such as the dhotis of Rajasthan or the peplums worn by men in Gujarat. The loose, flowy drapes embraced by people across the country are essential to our designs. Functionality takes precedence in every Antar-Agni creation, which we then blend with elements of the modern era.

FL: What are your thoughts on the evolution of Indian menswear in recent years? What exciting trends do you see emerging?

UD: Men have taken on to fashion at an enormous speed. The community was parched till about a decade back with a handful of brands creating clothes for men. Now, men have choices, and they are enjoying the experimentation that comes with new-age designs. They have found a new way of expression, or if I may say, they have found an outer skin that syncs with their inner content. We believe there will be no set trends, or rather, the trends will not have the lifetime they used to have before digital times.

“We strive to maintain fluidity in our creations, consciously avoiding confinement to any specific standard.”

FL: As a menswear designer label, what do you hope to achieve in the future? 

UD: We enjoy every aspect of the designing process, so there is no fixed hope to achieve, but we definitely want to give our wearer a complete sense of freedom and confidence when it comes to syncing with their own personalities while wearing our clothes.

FL: Tell us about your latest collection. What was the inspiration behind it, and how did it come together?

UD: Our latest collection, As It Is, is a glimpse into an ongoing dialogue between practical functionality and boundless creativity. Exploring the rich interplay of diverse fabrics, the designs allow each fabric to showcase its unique character. Skillfully navigating the tension between structured designs and the fluidity of fabric, we’ve harmonised defined shapes with the organic flow of materials. The ensembles are inked in a serene colour palette featuring powder blue, ice blues, kora, and dark beiges, along with complementing fabrics like cotton silks, Muga silk, and satin, adding texture and depth to the designs. Through meticulous craftsmanship, we’ve tried to weave a narrative celebrating the beauty of each fabric, letting them coexist harmoniously. The exploration of textures and silhouettes creates a visually captivating story, inviting consumers to immerse themselves in a sensory experience. This collection affirms our dedication to pushing boundaries and redefining conventional menswear fashion. 

FL: In an ever-evolving industry characterised by the swift adoption of singular trends, how do you establish your footing and remain true to your brand ethos?

UD: I believe evolution is key. Remaining true to the ethos is imperative. In my opinion, getting swayed by just any influence is unacceptable. We pace, we slow down, it’s a part of us. At Antar-Agni, we feel like we are growing with the label. 

FL: Your journey in the menswear realm has been a great one. Looking back, what has been your takeaway?

UD: If there’s one formula that encapsulates our journey, it would be a combination of perseverance, surrender, and love, which has turned into a magic potion that is vividly mirrored in our designs. I’ve discovered that one doesn’t necessarily need to be a master of every aspect. Instead, one should dive into the part of the process they know best. If you understand a, b, and c but not x, y, and z, focus on mastering a, b, and c. When I started the label, I was only 24 and questioned whether I was doing it right. The audience’s love for our creations proved to be a reassuring factor. Through my journey, I’ve come to realise that tethering your design to a standard imposes limitations. At Antar-Agni, our emphasis is not on breaking standards; we simply choose not to adhere to any standards, allowing us the flexibility to embrace new ideas openly. 

FL: What lies ahead for Antar-Agni and Ujjawal Dubey in the future?

UD: This year marks an exciting milestone for us as we celebrate a decade in the industry. We are eager to elevate our brand language and anticipate numerous thrilling activities and changes in our tenth year. This includes crafting new designs and more, which you’ll witness soon.