At Lakmē Fashion Week, Amit Aggarwal unveiled Orizon in collaboration with Indriya – a collection that traced a luminous journey from introspection to radiance. Known for his sculptural language and pioneering approach to material innovation, Aggarwal once again redefined the contours of Indian couture, merging his signature futuristic aesthetic with the richness of handloom textiles, vintage Banarasi weaves, and intricate mirrorwork.
With Orizon, his design philosophy finds new depth, where structure meets sentiment and tradition evolves into contemporary expression.Rooted in craftsmanship yet driven by constant reinvention, Aggarwal’s legacy lies in his ability to transform Indian textiles into living, breathing forms – making it a compelling narrative of modern identity shaped by memory, material, and light.
In conversation with First Look, the designer reflects on the making of Orizon, the idea of transformation, and the ever-evolving language of his craft.
FL: “Orizon” is framed as a journey from shadow to radiance. How did you translate something as intangible as transformation into physical form?
AA: Transformation may be intangible, yet it reveals itself through presence, confidence, and energy. For ‘Orizon’, materials became carriers of light, translating this inner shift into physical form. Silhouettes evolved from more contained structures into pieces that felt increasingly open and expansive, mirroring a journey of emergence. The intention was to create garments that do not merely dress the body, but reflect a quiet transformation within the wearer, an evolution that is both felt and seen.
FL: Your silhouettes are inherently sculptural – how did they evolve this season in response to the idea of fluidity and light?
AA: I’ve always been interested in how structure can hold emotion, and how fluidity can carry intent. With Orizon, I wanted to dissolve the boundary between the two. The silhouettes evolved to feel lighter and more responsive, allowing structure to move with a sense of ease rather than rigidity. Fluidity, in turn, became more deliberate, almost architectural in its expression. It allowed me to see form not as something fixed, but as something that continuously evolves through movement, light, and the presence of the wearer.
FL: Working with vintage Banarasi textiles and handlooms, how do you manipulate materials that traditionally carry weight into something that feels futuristic?
AA: To work with Banarasi textiles is to begin with a memory of weight, of opulence, of history deeply embedded in every thread. My approach is not to diminish that legacy, but to transform it. Through material innovation and precise engineering, we allow the textile to transcend its own gravity, arriving at a state of lightness. The handloom remains integral, but it is guided into structure while preserving its inherent fluidity. In Orizon, this becomes a quiet negotiation between heritage and evolution. What emerges is a form that holds its history yet moves beyond it, sculptural yet weightless, and undeniably futuristic.
“For me, heritage is not something to simply preserve, but something to continuously evolve.”
FL: The show unfolds almost cinematically. How important is sequencing when you’re telling a story like this on the runway?
AA: Sequencing becomes essential when the runway is treated as a narrative. The show unfolds as a celebration of light, moving gradually from darkness into an atmospheric glow, almost halo-like in its presence. We all move through moments of uncertainty in search of something brighter, and Orizon reflects that passage. It is a quiet shift from introspection to celebration, expressed through the evolution of the garments, where each look builds upon the last to reveal a journey toward light, clarity, and confidence.
FL: What does “heritage” mean to you in this collection – is it something to preserve, disrupt, or completely reconfigure?
AA: For me, heritage is not something to simply preserve, but something to continuously evolve. At the heart of the collection lies a commitment to the transformation of textiles, rethinking materiality as a living process. By reworking recycled and unconventional materials into couture surfaces, the brand challenges traditional definitions of luxury while proposing a more responsible future for fashion. Upcycling functions as a foundational design practice rather than a visual statement, allowing materials to remain active within this creative process. Each garment becomes part of an ongoing lifecycle where innovation and tradition coexist, shaping a vision of heritage that is both enduring and forward-looking.