Let’s walk through the journey of Chikankari, an art which flawlessly stands the test of time.
In Indian fashion, time-honoured craftsmanship is the common thread that runs across wardrobes. Embroideries like zardozi, gota patti, kantha, aari, and countless other heritage-infused textile art have been part of the traditional repertoire. Throughout India’s ethnic treasure trove, there is one pièce de résistance that has long been part of the fashion canvas but has regained popularity among fashion connoisseurs – Chikankari.
An elegant craft that was once patronised by the Nawabs of Awadh, Chikankari has now carved out an unexpected appreciation from the new generation. The white-on-white embroidery was initially done on muslin, but as time passed, the embroidery was crafted on georgette, crepe, and chiffon, along with many other fabrics. Not only classic textiles but the graceful needlework has also influenced Indo-Western creations like co-ord sets, dresses, and cape sets, with many more to follow. While Chikankari has various forms across regions, such as Mukaish and Phulkari, Lucknow remains synonymous with the finest representation of the art. The threadwork undergoes a painstaking procedure, but the results warrant the highest ovation of appreciation.
Understated yet regal, Chikankari has risen from everyday wear to a prominent place in the bridal couture. From Alanna Panday to Richa Chadha, the Persian-origin needlework has encapsulated everyone’s heart, inspiring new-age brides to shift towards this threadwork for their nuptials.
The nation’s top designers, including Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, Tarun Tahiliani, Manish Malhotra, Anjul Bhandari, Anamika Khanna, Pankaj S Heritage, and Faabiiana, have played a crucial part in bringing this timeless craft to the forefront. Their efforts are a testament to the fact that age-old craftsmanship like Chikankari can invariably find a place in today’s fashion, evoking appreciation and respect.
As a revered art form, Chikankari reflects the imperial past through its meticulous craftsmanship and patience while resonating with the present. It also complements other enduring artistic traditions, including Dhoke, Moti, Danka, Marodi, and an extensive list beyond. The perfect exemplification was Athiya Shetty’s nuptial ensemble – an exquisite, subtle pink lehenga designed by the illustrious Anamika Khanna, epitomising grace and grandeur. Sonam Kapoor Ahuja and Deepika Padukone also incorporated the resplendent beauty into their pre and post nuptial celebrations.
Although today’s generation is beginning to appreciate “the purest indigenous needlework of India,” as described by the designer Pankaj S Heritage, the journey to success wasn’t a straight road. The skilled artisans who passed down the cherished art form from their ancestors were gradually overtaken by industrialisation. However, organisations and distinguished sartorial experts across India are working to preserve the rich heritage of Chikankari for future generations, ensuring that the legacy endures. The textile art may appear fragile and delicate, but it holds centuries of history in its finest threads, evoking profound awe and admiration.
The revival and reinvention of Chikankari in the contemporary fashion landscape exhibits the glorious heritage of our rich tradition. Whether embraced by A-list celebrities or the new generation, the art form has elevated Indian bridal couture with its subtle yet opulent essence. While it may not be embossed in golden letters that Chikankari is destined to endure, the persistence and dedication of our fashion designers may ensure that this elegant needlework remains a part of the wardrobes of future generations.