Briefly lost amidst the many exuberant crafts of India, Appliqué is making a dynamic comeback with a global appeal. Here’s how these leading designers have championed the art of appliqué with a contemporary twist.  

In a country known for its expansive handicrafts, certain art forms often get blurred along the pages of history. Appliqué, also known as patchwork, is one of those techniques that has had an uncharted path. An integral part of India’s textile history, appliqué’s origins can be traced back to parts of Gujarat, Rajasthan and Odisha. However, despite its waning popularity, some of India’s leading designers have contributed to its modern-day patronage by putting a new-age spin on the craft. Delve into an exclusive conversation with Aisha Rao, Sahil Kochhar and Kanika Goyal, as they give us a peek into their interpretation of the craft that caters to global sensibilities.

AISHA RAO

Over the years, appliqué work has become a signature element of your eponymous brand. What inspired you to incorporate this technique in your designs? 

From the very beginning, we embraced appliqué embroidery as a way to repurpose leftover fabric and minimise waste. To my surprise, many brides were open to wearing lehengas crafted from scraps. What started as a sustainable choice soon evolved into our visual identity. Collection after collection, we focused on refining our techniques – both to honour its identity and to meet the growing demand. 

How do you balance traditional craftsmanship with modern design elements? 

Appliqué is at the heart of our brand’s visual language, and we’ve always seen it as a canvas to push creative boundaries. While traditional handwork techniques like aari and zardosi remain timeless, we intentionally layer them with our signature appliqué to create something unexpected. The key lies in balance – our large appliqué motifs serve as the focal point, while intricate hand-embroidery enriches and complements the design. In our India Modern category, especially, this harmony comes alive through contemporary silhouettes that carry forward artisanal legacy in a way that feels distinctly fresh and forward.

What is the USP of the craft seen in your work?

At Aisha Rao, appliqué isn’t just a technique; it’s a signature that defines our aesthetic. What sets our work apart is the way we combine bold, large-scale appliqué motifs with intricate layers of traditional embroidery to create rich, unexpected textures. We started with a zero-waste approach, transforming fabric remnants into vibrant motifs, which gave our appliqué its distinctive look. As the brand evolved and demand increased, we innovated a new technique by merging our signature prints with embellishments that echo the dimension and detail of appliqué. This constant reinvention, while staying rooted in mindful craftsmanship, is what makes our approach to appliqué truly unique. 

SAHIL KOCHHAR

Your eponymous brand has showcased appliqué work for many years and in many variations. How were you drawn towards this craft technique?

I realised early in my career that our country’s craftsmanship and our ability to conceptualise, construct, and finish garments with precision are unparalleled and not easy to replicate. One technique that stands out is appliqué work, a craft deeply rooted in tradition yet full of untapped contemporary potential. My vision has always been to reimagine it, not in its usual ceremonial context where it’s treated as an ornate costume, but for a global fashion audience. The aim is to preserve its technical intricacies and labour-intensive beauty while giving it a new face and showing how an age-old technique can evolve, adapt, and shine across borders.

What inspires your designs when working with appliqué?

Our work is deeply rooted in a rich tradition, but what sets us apart is how we interpret that legacy. While the foundation is undeniably classic, our approach gives it a fresh and globally relevant face. Our inspiration consistently comes from nature, the vibrant flora and fauna of our country, its diverse landscapes, and the lush greenery that surrounds us. Over time, we’ve also started integrating geometric elements into this natural aesthetic, creating a unique design language that defines our brand’s artistic identity. Appliqué work plays a central role in this visual narrative; it allows us to layer, texture, and build dimension into the design.

How do you select your fabrics, and what role do materials play in the storytelling aspect of your designs? 

We put great thought and effort into sourcing, developing, and bringing together a diverse range of textiles. Often, we take a commonly used fabric and treat it so uniquely that while you may recognise the base, it becomes nearly unrecognisable. You can sense what it once was, but the transformation is so intricate, it feels entirely new. Through carefully developed techniques, we turn the original base into a distinct, tactile, and rich texture. Once created, this texture is cut, layered, and assembled through appliqué into artworks, motifs, and garment panels. It starts with a sketch – the vision is broken down, cut into swatches, and pieced together into the final garment. Every piece reflects a balance of heritage, innovation, and storytelling through craft.

KANIKA GOYAL LABEL

From 3D florals to geometric patterns, appliqué has been an integral part of your designs. Tell us what makes KGL’s pieces unique.

As a brand rooted in India – a country where craft is both abundant and deeply embedded in everyday life – it feels instinctive for us to integrate traditional techniques. But we approach them through a very specific lens: contemporary, bold, and true to KGL’s sensibility. Over the years, we’ve gravitated towards leather appliqué, which is quite an unconventional material for this technique. It’s become a signature for us. Recently, we’ve started working with denim scraps, pushing our exploration of upcycling while experimenting with the sculptural quality of appliqué. What really excites me is merging different textures and dimensions – playing with 3D techniques, layering contrasting materials, and treating appliqué almost like collage. The intention is always to create something that feels unexpected, but still reflects the roots of craft.

Appliqué has a lot to do with contrasting textures. How do you choose the right motifs and materials?

At KGL, we’re instinctively drawn to motifs that feel surreal, otherworldly, and often paradoxical – layered with irony or a quiet sense of humour. I like to think of them as visual riddles, open to interpretation and shaped by the perspective of the wearer. We’re equally intrigued by material contrasts – juxtaposing delicate beading with rugged denim, or pairing velvets with structured leather. It’s this tension between surfaces that gives the piece its character. In a sense, the motif and the material become co-narrators, each adding nuance to the story the garment is meant to tell.

Are there certain unique versions of appliqué that you want to try in the future?

Definitely. We’ve been working with both hand and machine appliqué techniques to create hybrid textures that blur the lines between the artisanal and the industrial. I’m particularly excited about pushing the boundaries of materials, exploring laminated fabrics, tech-infused textiles, transparent layers, and reflective surfaces. Denim is another material I want to use more extensively, but in ways that feel unexpected and unconventional. For me, appliqué is a structural and narrative tool, a way to build dimension and tell stories through surface.