There is something ambitious about a restaurant that builds its entire identity around pasta. In Mumbai, where Italian menus usually stretch from pizzas to risotto to every imaginable comfort dish, Toast Pasta Bar chose to do the opposite. You notice it long before your order arrives. There are no oven baked pizzas that grab attention. The kitchen seems to be focused on just one thing.
Four years ago, Chef-owner Devika Manjrekar unveiled one of the city’s first dedicated pasta bars. Situated in one of Mumbai’s busiest neighborhoods, Kamala Mills, the cosy open-kitchen restaurant is where pasta remains the hero element throughout.
For Devika, the philosophy has always been simple – “Pasta should shine on its own.” She further adds with a laugh, “We have to get over the idea of treating pasta as a complete meal that requires chicken, broccoli, and vegetables added to it. The way Italians eat it, pasta itself is the hero, and the sauce is what compliments it. It’s not meant to compete with everything on the plate.”
The thought came to her after her admiration for London’s pasta restaurant, Padella, where control is valued just as much as technique. Rather than overwhelming ingredients like added vegetables and protein, Toast allows the pasta and its rich sauces to speak for themselves.
As Toast completes four glorious years, their philosophy remains the same through almost every dish on the menu, featuring handmade pastas, desserts and sumptuous cocktails. Keeping the offerings limited encourages the team to focus on technique which can be easily identified once the food arrives.
The Pappardelle with Oxtail Ragu is impossible to rush. It is slow cooked till the meat melts off the bone delivering rich comforting richness. “It’s probably one of my favourite dishes on the menu”, says Devika. “I literally make this myself every week and it’s beautiful and something I would recommend if you eat meat.”
Another one of Toast’s most popular dishes is their Gnudi. “It’s like a Gnocchi but with ricotta instead of potato. We make that with Bhavnagri chillies, cherry tomatoes, and basil.” It melts into your mouth with rich flavours from the chillies and tomatoes, making it one of their bestsellers.
Not every favourite of theirs arrived with so much planning. Some of them were born by accident. While experimenting with marmalade for a dessert, the kitchen once left oranges cooking for longer than intended. “We turned that into ice cream and now it is one of our most ordered dishes on the menu.”
Chef Devika’s willingness to experiment extends beyond the kitchen and to the bar. Toast recently introduced a bar menu that stems from Devika’s personal interest. She has been obsessed with martinis for the past month. Her personal favourite, The House Dirty, is everything you want a dirty martini to be. “We infuse the vodka or the gin with olive brine. We also have stuffed olives as garnish, which is very savory.” The Martini Pomodoro is also one of their most memorable drinks which translates tomato flavours, basil, and olive into a crystal-clear cocktail that somehow tastes exactly like its name. The housemade limoncello completes the experience paying homage to Italian tradition.
Coccoli is one of the things you must order while waiting for your pasta. These warm pockets of dough served with truffle, stracciatella, parmesan, and truffle honey are designed to accompany the drinks. “We had it since day one; it’s exactly the kind of thing I want people sharing over drinks before the pasta arrives.” Even after celebrating their fourth anniversary, Devika still tweaks recipes, creates seasonal menus, allowing ingredients to take the spotlight. The commitment to this craft is what makes Toast Pasta Bar memorable. The space simply wants the diners to be reminded that fresh pasta if treated with care won’t need anything else for attention.