It is no secret that Jatin Malik is one of the country’s most creative couture designers. A master of high-end ensembles with a distinct inspiration and global appeal, he likes to keep himself involved in his work and evolve with time in order to create timeless, intelligent designs.
In the drive to create India’s most iconic brand for Menswear, Malik earmarked five years of his life after overcoming critics, self-doubt, and personal sacrifices attached to success and acclaim.
After receiving enormous traction and love for his debut collection in 2016, he showcased Indian craftsmanship internationally at Milan Fashion Week in 2019. For today’s Indian grooms, the designer’s eponymous brand is one of the most loved.
Jatin Malik’s latest drop, Pablo, is his most talked-about collection. A fashionable tribute to the master artist Pablo Picasso, it combines bohemian flair with bespoke tailoring and androgyny.
Inspired by the two most famous art forms introduced by Pablo Picasso – Cubism and Fauvism, elements in the collection, such as embroideries and ornamentation, are reminiscent of art forms. The line-up has an air of newness, proffering high-fashion ready-to-wear, such as hand-painted jackets, fluid shirts, and embellished jackets.
Soon after the launch at our studio in Bandra, Mumbai, we spoke to the designer about his journey in the fashion realm. Here we discover more about his career, notable sartorial developments in groom fashion, and his newest collection.
PPUS: Can you tell us what makes the Jatin Malik brand unique?
JM: I don’t want to shy away from accepting that we have always been driven by our clients’ inputs. In the last 4-5 years, I have always tried to provide value to our clients through our new silhouettes, colour palettes & embroidery. That is what makes JMC stand apart!
PPUS: Tell us about your journey to becoming a couture designer.
JM: My journey is anything but traditional! Growing up, I always had a knack for designing. In 9th grade, I was expelled and reprimanded by my principal for designing my uniform. I initially designed for my family and friends before launching my label at the age of 29. For almost a year, my family was unaware I had quit my job to run JMC through Facebook and Instagram simultaneously.
PPUS: What is your favourite aspect of the creative process?
JM: Not only ours, but every couture business thrives on the creative process. Streamlining the process is essential to everything we do. Every season, we develop new colour palettes, new embroidery techniques, and new fabrics. Brainstorming and trial and error are imperative steps in our process. This season, we were aiming to change the silhouettes or the build of the garment through the 3D elements. And, it is fascinating to see how much love and appreciation the audience is giving.
PPUS: Given that bridalwear is one of the most opulent sides of the fashion fraternity in the country, why was it that you chose groomswear as your niche?
JM: For me, it is natural to come up with something I feel I can contribute. On witnessing the massive gap in the industry for groomswear, I thought I could provide some value there.
The first thing you notice at a store is that almost 70% to 80% of the merchandise is bridal wear. One tiny section at the back of the store with a limited 15-10 pieces is dedicated to grooms, which is what I wanted to change.
One statement that has stuck with me over the years was by one of my clients from Calcutta. I met him at my store, we had a decent chat for an hour or so, and he said, “Finally, there is someone for groomswear.”
PPUS: One of the few Indian designers who have made some noteworthy sartorial developments in groom fashion is you. How does that feel?
JM: Thank you so much! It’s incredible, and I feel grateful. The only problem is that people compare me to veterans who have been here for 20-25 years when I do live sessions. The comments about people I studied and idolised are strange because I am compared to them even when JMC has been here for 5 years. For me, it is always a pleasure to be surrounded by these designers whenever I encounter them.
PPUS: There is no doubt that Picasso’s visual art styles have been a powerful influence on the collection, such as Cubism, Collages, depictions of distortion and the colours used in the collection. Instead of simply working with one style, what made you sift through different Picasso art styles?
JM: The collection is divided into two parts- Cubism & Fauvism. Fauvism is slightly louder for my taste, but Cubism intrigued me more as I wanted to change the shapes of my embroideries. If someone is familiar with Picasso’s work, these are the two artworks he usually dealt with sometime before World War 1, and that was also the time he was famous but surrounded by controversies.
Taking Pablo as an inspiration has been a life-changing game for me, personally and professionally. Pablo has been very vocal that art shouldn’t be seen from one perspective, which is what resonated with me when I started my journey at the age of 28. I started looking at my life differently, connecting me to Pablo.
PPUS: Are there any instances when your inability to do justice to the inspiration has caused you to halt the creative process?
JM: That has never happened, and I hope it never happens. We take a lot of time to get the inspiration right, and only do collections if we are actually completely and passionately in love with the inspiration. And, when I say we, I am talking about the JMC team, not just me. Pablo’s work completely floored the entire design, marketing, and production team, another reason why we stuck with the inspiration. So it is not about whether I would halt production if the inspiration weren’t right; instead, I would never do a collection if I am unable to justify my inspiration.
With a deep understanding of the current trends, the label can seamlessly blend international style elements with cultural influences. Take your pick from myriad ensembles showcasing hand-painted details, embroidery collages, and a monochromatic space blue palette with faggoting details. Explore and shop the latest collection exclusively at our stores in Mumbai, Ahmedabad or at men.perniaspopupshop.com