Hyderabad-based design house Aisha Rao has firmly established itself as a celebrated name in the Indian fashion landscape. At the helm is Aisha Rao, a creative force whose journey is as eclectic as her designs.
A law graduate from the prestigious NUJS in Kolkata, Aisha’s path took a dramatic turn when she decided to pursue her passion for design. She says, “My family was absolutely shocked, and my parents were a bit disappointed when it finally sunk in that I had decided to officially bid goodbye to a career in law and do this for a living.” Leaving behind the legal world, she honed her craft at IED Barcelona and Parsons School of Design in New York, where she studied Sewing & Garment Construction. Aisha recalls, “In 2017, I came back to India to start my eponymous label with zero work experience and not enough practical training in making Indian occasion wear or running a business. It was out of sheer stubbornness that I started Aisha Rao with one tailoring machine and one master who doubled up as a tailor on my terrace.”
Aisha Rao’s label is synonymous with upcycled luxury and a distinctive design language that marries tradition with contemporary sensibilities. The innovative use of fabric waste characterises her signature style, transformed into vibrant appliqué motifs layered with intricate aari, zardozi, and macramé embroideries. This meticulous craftsmanship resulted in a blend of delicate and maximalist elements, making her creations a favourite among brides who sought to honour tradition while embracing modernity.
Reflecting on her brand’s evolution, Aisha acknowledges the challenges of scaling a zero-waste ideology. “I want to be extremely honest here. I was naive enough to begin with a ‘zero’ waste ideology to create an upcycled luxury brand. When we reached higher volumes on the same orders, we faced challenges in finding the ‘perfect waste’ for repeats. As a solution, we introduced printed versions of the same designs among other similar alternatives,” she admits. This pragmatic approach allowed the label to maintain her brand’s commitment to sustainability while ensuring that her creations remained luxurious.
Aisha Rao’s design philosophy is as fluid as its founder’s inspirations. “There’s no steady set of influences,” she explains. Her ideas can stem from a character’s name in a movie or a desire to see change reflected in her environment. Nature often serves as a touchstone, bringing coherence to her diverse inspirations. This ever-evolving creative process keeps her work fresh and exciting, with each collection offering something new and unexpected.
The design house’s latest collection, Kinfolk, embodies the contradictions that define both the designer and her work. Inspired by the duality of human desires and the complexity of relationships, Kinfolk explores the tension between spontaneity and routine, heart and mind, nature and culture. This collection, which began as an ode to duality with her earlier work ‘Amalgam,’ continues the journey with a fantastical fusion of appliqué and print, brought to life in vivid technicolour.
Another standout collection that deserves a spotlight, Banafsh, draws inspiration from the architectural splendour of Siddhpur, Gujarat. The shades of violet, lavender, purple, and magenta that dominate this collection are a tribute to the pastel-coloured facades of the town’s havelis, known as Bohravads. These historic mansions, with their confluence of Victorian, European, Indian, and Islamic influences, serve as a reminder of India’s rich cultural story. The collection’s intricate designs capture the essence of these architectural marvels, making them timeless treasures for the modern bride.
As Aisha Rao’s label continues to grow, it remains committed to expanding its offerings and refining its operations. The label’s vision for the future includes launching accessories and opening more stores across India, all while maintaining the creative integrity that has become Aisha’s hallmark. “Our next goal is to maintain this structure, enhance organisation, and continually push boundaries to offer the best creative output we possibly can each season,” she shares.
Aisha Rao’s journey from law to luxury fashion is a testament to her resilience, creativity, and passion. Her label, with its unique blend of tradition and innovation, is poised to continue making waves in the Indian fashion industry, one vibrant, upcycled motif at a time.