Voluminous skirts in vivacious hues, rich silk kurtas and a cluster of smiling faces twirling and grooving, immersed in what seems like a celebration you’d definitely want to be a part of – all these things have one thing in common – Abhinav Mishra’s captivating mirror embroidery. The Delhi-based designer, who laid the foundation for his eponymous label in 2017, has since garnered widespread recognition for his use of traditional mirror work, also known as Abhala Bharat locally. Even though this technique of attaching small pieces of mirror to fabric is centuries old, the design mastermind has redefined this craft for his new-age audience.
As people’s sensibilities become more globally inclined, so do the nuptials and their sartorial choices. Today’s brides and grooms desire to stay close to their traditional roots while embracing the modernity of things, and this is where the designer finds his niche and weaves his magic. “Today’s generation is far more experimental and individualistic in their choices. I’ve noticed a shift towards lighter, more versatile pieces that balance grandeur with comfort. Brides and grooms are seeking ensembles that don’t just look beautiful in photographs but also allow them to truly enjoy their special moments without feeling weighed down,” expresses Mishra, who believes in making clothes that feel relatable and wearable.
“While we’re seeing a lot of brides lean towards pastels and muted tones for certain functions, traditional reds and maroons are making a strong comeback at the same time.”
Larger-than-life celebrations are the heart and soul of the label’s visual language, and the designer agrees to be an admirer of the same himself. However, not always does his own vision align with today’s consumer market. “Today’s clientele is extremely aware and exposed to global media, which often makes them want to experiment with what’s fashionable in the moment, and that doesn’t always align with my approach. My design philosophy is rooted in blending ancient crafts, traditional techniques, and time-honoured methods with contemporary elements, rather than chasing short-lived fads.” But knowing his patronage well enough, he also adds, “If a client comes to me, it’s usually because they understand and trust my designs, and want to be an Abhinav Mishra bride. But in rare cases when someone’s vision does not fully connect with mine, it can prove to be a challenge, which tends to happen, especially in India, where the wedding market is quite vast.”
Indian weddings have a charm of their own, doused in shades of vermillion, yellows, Rani pink, emerald greens, and saffron. This age-old celebratory palette has passed the test of time, but there have been new additions that reflect the energy of the globally attuned generation.
“A timeless piece will always find a place in your wardrobe beyond the wedding.”
However, no matter how much the colour schemes keep changing for the modern brides and grooms, the heart and soul lie in the craft. While Mishra might incorporate a number of contemporary elements in his creations, his loyalty remains with his craft. On choosing mirror work as his signature technique, he shares, “I have always been fascinated by the history of mirror work, and spent countless hours researching its roots in Gujarat and Rajasthan. I love how it reflects light and joy, almost like poetry on fabric. Over the years, I’ve layered it with gota, threadwork, and tonal palettes to give it a contemporary spin. A recent example is my collection Tribe, inspired by the grace and resilience of the Kalbeliya community and the nomadic spirit of Rajasthan. Every design of mine is built around techniques that have been passed down for generations, and my role is to preserve that authenticity while adapting it to today’s sensibilities. For me, it is a tribute to artisanal traditions and a reminder that love, in all its forms, is timeless.”
There is no doubt that India comprises one of the most diverse and lavish wedding markets in the world. Naturally, the clothing industry catering to these events is just as gigantic. However, amidst a crowd of many, Abhinav Mishra has emerged as a designer with an impactful design dialect that speaks to modern and traditional sensibilities alike. His creations exhibit a harmonious confluence of both – the old and new, making them a reflection of craft culture that spans centuries.