JJ Valaya’s journey is one of audacity, artistry, and heritage. As House of Valaya celebrates 30+ years, he reflects on a legacy born from passion and faith.

In the late 1980s, at a time when fashion as an industry did not exist in India, Valaya found himself at a crossroads. “I was studying to be a chartered accountant, but I was very clear that I needed something creative to take me forward,” he recalls. As destiny would have it, the National Institute of Fashion Technology was established around the same time, offering him a path into the nascent world of Indian fashion. Joining the institution was a pivotal decision that marked the genesis of JJ Valaya’s illustrious journey into couture, craftsmanship, and storytelling.

Creativity coursed through Valaya’s veins, a legacy passed down to him from his family. “My mother was a kidswear designer specialising in evening frocks with exquisite hand embroideries and detailing. My maasi, Parameshwar Godrej, was an interior designer in Mumbai and a true style icon of her time.” However, it was his internship with Rohit Khosla, often hailed as the father of modern Indian fashion, that profoundly shaped his design philosophy. “The time I spent interning with him was invaluable,” Valaya reflects. “It was where I truly understood the pulse of couture and the discipline it required.”

A true explorer at heart, Valaya captures the grandeur of bygone eras with his creations. “Couture is a bridge between the past and the present. My approach has never been about simply recreating history; I take the hidden beauty of vintage elements and translate them into something relevant for today”

I don’t want to be a historian making garments laden with embroidery – I want to breathe new life into heritage, making it wearable, modern, and timeless.

One of Valaya’s signature innovations includes his pioneering work with mixed metal embroidery in the early ’90s. With a deep-rooted love for antiquated metals, he saw poetry in juxtaposing metal against fabric. “Today, we blend metals with beads, stones, silk threads, crystals, and pearls to create layers of texture and depth. But my loyalty to metallics, especially the patina versions, remains unwavering.”

Establishing the House of Valaya as a distinguished luxury brand has been no easy feat. “Couture is relentless – it demands reinvention, season after season,” Valaya asserts. The key? Innovate while maintaining a distinct identity. “Even after three decades, I wake up with the same excitement to create as I did when I was 22. That passion, I believe, is the foundation of the brand’s legacy.”.

This commitment to evolution was evident when, in 1993, he became the first Indian designer to host a solo fashion show in India. Reflecting on this milestone, he notes, “That show was a milestone – it set a precedent and laid the groundwork for Indian couture as we know it today.”

Valaya’s connection to his heritage inspired the inception of JJV Kapurthala, a bridge-to-luxury line. “JJV Kapurthala was born out of three key thoughts,” he shares. “First, I wanted to create an accessible luxury line… Second, it was a tribute to my roots, to Kapurthala… And third, it was about practicality.” 

Travel has been the soul of Valaya’s designs, infusing his collections with historical epochs and diverse cultural narratives.  In his latest collection, Muraqqa, this thematic exploration came alive as he immersed himself in the artistic legacies of three great Islamic capitals, drawing inspiration from their visual and cultural tapestries.

Beyond couture and craftsmanship, Valaya’s passion for photography offers him another medium to capture and reinterpret beauty. “Photography is my alter ego at play. It gives me the freedom to freeze moments in time,” he shares. As a founding member of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), Valaya has witnessed the Indian fashion landscape’s transformation from its infancy to a global powerhouse. “We built this industry from the ground up, changing perceptions and making fashion an integral part of fine living,” he reflects.

Looking ahead, Valaya envisions a legacy where the brand outlives the man, continuing to inspire and captivate future generations. “The Valaya ecosystem of royalty, nomadic spirit, love for Art Deco, modernity, glamour, and extravagance – I hope it continues to create something special year after year,decade after decade, and hopefully century after century.”