In the wake of the 1990s, a man revolutionised the country’s fashion with an aesthetic now known as ‘Indian Modern’ – that man was Rohit Bal. An extraordinaire in his own right, Bal’s contribution to the country’s design legacy is undeniable. From voluminous mulmul Anarkalis to regal velvet lehengas, the maestro ushered in a new era of modernised traditional clothing that married heritage crafts and modern techniques like never before. 

Today, when one sees colossal red roses adorning a garment, it is no challenge to identify it as a Rohit Bal creation; such was his magic. Fondly known amongst industry insiders as Gudda, his signature designs were also synonymous with peacock and lotus. After launching his label and first collection in 1990, Bal was instantly lauded for the use of meticulous craftsmanship in a modern context. Six years later, The Times magazine listed him as India’s ‘Master of fabric and fantasy’. 

However, the designer’s career did not start from his eponymous brand that we all reckon. He initially worked at a textile export house with his brother, where he learnt the ropes of the trade. It was only four years later that label Rohit Bal was born. Since then, there was no turning back for the exceptional designer. The tales of his intricate embroideries and luxed fabrics soon reached overseas as Hollywood stars like Uma Thurman, Elizabeth Hurley and Pamela Anderson started donning his creations. In no time, the label’s opulent stores started to pop up in major cities. Over the years, he gave the country the most iconic fashion shows for which Bollywood royalty like Kareena Kapoor and Sonam Kapoor turned showstoppers. 

But it was never just about producing glamorous luxury clothes for Bal. His work was deeply intertwined with the karigars, who were the pillar of his empire. He understood the importance of craftsmen way before it was a social media trend. Bal’s unending love for local crafts was further established by his collaboration with organisations like the Khadi Gram Udyog. 

Even though Rohit Bal is and always will be remembered  as a master couturier, it is known to very few that he was the first designer to start a prêt label, Balance, following which more designers began to launch ready-to-wear clothing. With artistic innovation like no other, he brought fantasy to life through his designs. Whether it was the long jackets and skirts worn by his male models or his majestic shows with the backdrop of Qutub Minar, everything Bal did had a sense of magic to it. Although the media emphasised on the glamorous side of his life, calling him “fashion’s bad boy”, he was a loving mentor to many designers of today including Manish Arora and Sahil Kochhar. 

After fighting his ailment, Bal’s last showcase took place during FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week 2024, which was a celebration of life. As the iconic designer danced on the runway at the closing, the crowd stood up to cheer him with wet eyes. Just like his vivacious designs, his spirit was never dulled by his illness. On November 1, the legendary artist took his final bow, but the saga of his creations, the stories he wove with threads, will forever be etched in the history of Indian fashion.