From her teenage triumphs to reshaping Indian fashion globally, Payal Singhal reflects on 25 years of innovation, challenges, and a design philosophy rooted in modernity and tradition.
Under the shimmering lights of the fashion world, where trends often flicker and fade, Payal Singhal has stood as a beacon of timeless innovation. With a career spanning 25 years, this designer has not only captured hearts but also redefined the essence of modern Indian couture, blending tradition with an audaciously contemporary flair.
“I grew up completely surrounded by fashion, art, and films,” Singhal recounts with nostalgic reverence. Her lineage reads like a script of creativity—her grandfather, a celebrated painter and photographer for film stars, and her parents, owners of the iconic 1970s retail brand London Fashions. It was no surprise that she dabbled in sketches and design from an early age. At just 15, she made her foray into the industry, winning Shoppers Stop’s Designer of the Year competition. Reflecting on her debut creation – a spaghetti strap kurta paired with a shrug – Singhal admits, “It was revolutionary for 1992, a bold, risqué piece that challenged the norms of the time.” This spirit of challenging conventions would become her hallmark.
Payal Singhal’s label has since become synonymous with modern Indian fashion. Her designs cater to the “new-age bride and her bridal tribe,” as Singhal puts it, who seek Indian craftsmanship delivered through global aesthetics. Tassels, prints, and playful yet sophisticated silhouettes have cemented her signature style. However, this journey was not without its hurdles. “When I started, people didn’t even know they wanted what I was offering,” she laughs, recounting the challenges of introducing fusion wear to a market steeped in conservatism. “I transformed kurtas into tops, salwars into palazzos, and dupattas into beaded stoles—creating a movement before it was a trend.”
True fashion transcends trends; it tells stories, bridges cultures, and creates communities.
Singhal’s commitment to innovation extends beyond clothing. Her design philosophy is deeply rooted in India’s rich heritage, with a modern twist. “I’ve always been inspired by Indian crafts,” she says, her voice imbued with pride. Whether it’s using zardozi embroidery on unconventional materials like wool and leather or reimagining traditional anarkalis into deconstructed silhouettes, her work pays homage to tradition while embracing modernity. “To me, it’s about taking something old and giving it a contemporary narrative. It’s the intersection of past and present that excites me the most.”
Perhaps her most notable milestone came in 2006, when she opened her store in Gramercy Park, New York. Singhal recalls the early days when the diaspora struggled to grasp her avant-garde approach to Indian wear. “Back then, Indian fashion in the West lagged 10 to 20 years behind what was happening in India,” she explains. Yet, over time, the shift became evident. Today, her clientele spans generations—mothers and daughters alike embrace her designs, proving the universal appeal of her creations. “Fashion has become global,” she observes. “The internet has bridged the gap, and Indian designers are now celebrated for their craft rather than just their ethnic appeal.”
Payal Singhal’s journey is not merely about design; it’s also about building a tribe. Her PS Girl community, a loyal group of clients, influencers, and tastemakers, is a testament to her inclusive ethos. “We’ve never turned anyone away, whether for budget or customisation needs,” she says. “Our goal has always been to make everyone feel like they own a piece of us, whether it’s a lehenga or a pocket square.” This philosophy of accessibility and personal connection has turned her brand into a lifestyle, not just a label.
Speaking of lifestyle, Singhal’s collaborations have pushed the boundaries of her brand. From bags to accessories, she has expanded her vision into a holistic aesthetic. “Collaborations allow us to bring our design philosophy to new products and audiences,” she explains. Whether designing wedding outfits embroidered with personal love stories or conceptualising prints inspired by Mughal architecture, Singhal’s design process remains meticulous yet instinctive. “I start with an idea, then gather visual references, whether it’s flowers, architecture, or moods. From there, it’s about distilling these inspirations into patterns, colours, and embroideries. It’s chaotic, but it works for me.”
As for the future, Payal Singhal dreams of creating the PS Print Bazaar – a space where all her signature prints and products coexist under one roof. “It’s a dream I’m working towards,” she shares with quiet determination.
Our goal has always been to make everyone feel like they own a piece of us.
Amidst all her achievements, one of Singhal’s most poignant moments came during her 20th-anniversary show. The runway saw her muse, Shibani Dandekar, and her now-husband Farhan Akhtar walk together to an acoustic rendition of “You’re the One That I Want.” “It was magical,” she reminisces. “Two years later, they chose the same song for their wedding. That’s what we stand for—authentic, heartfelt connections.”
As Payal Singhal celebrates 25 years in the industry, her legacy is not just about the clothes she’s created but the movement she’s championed. By redefining Indian couture for the global stage, she has proven that true fashion transcends trends; it tells stories, bridges cultures, and creates communities. And in her words, “When you design from the heart, the world will always resonate with it.”