Dive into festive looks from the past as we steer the wheel back to the most fashionable vintage eras. As you turn the pages, discover high-on-glam looks that framed the tapestry of changing Indian fashion.
The Golden Era: 1950s
Sharp, modest, and formal – the decade right after India’s independence was a time characterised by European influence, along with flourishing art and culture. This era focused on nation building and nationalism, one where the country achieved some of the most historical milestones. As a result, the style of the 1950s was a juxtaposition of traditional weaves like silk and khadi along with Western-influenced silhouettes like puff-sleeve blouses. Also known as Bollywood’s ‘golden era’, 1950s is when Indian cinema started playing a pivotal role in post-independence India. Actresses like Nargis and Madhubala became icons of style, donning delicately embroidered drapes with fancy blouses that had a touch of sophistication. Lightweight thread work was preferred over heavily embroidered pieces, keeping the essence of traditional wear but with a newer, more modern approach.
For far and long, India romanticised long undone hair, which changed during the 1950s – the era that popularised groomed hairstyles. The European sensibilities seeped in the society through the royalty and elite classes. As a result, finger waves emerged as the most prominent hairdo and were ornamented with mangtikkas and a slight slather of fragrant oil. Neatly done buns and plaits were donned by women of high society that were further decorated with ribbons and flowers. To add more understated glamour to their look, the face was further enhanced with striking red lips and minimal eye makeup. Additionally, a small bindi was often added to add more gravity to the look without overpowering one’s flawless and dewy skin.
When it comes to jewellery from the 1950s, one can’t help but daydream about pearls. Pristine and classic pearl bijoux became a big hit at this point, as opposed to the heavy gold jewellery synonymous with India. Layered strings called ‘rani haar’ and dainty chokers became the most desired trends, along with colourful beads and stones. These jewellery designs also stood as a testament to British influences and how India found its true identity in the post-Raj era.
Time of fashion liberation – 1960s
This era was perhaps one which brought in the most number of fashion trends. Both long and short fitted tunics (or kameez) with churidaar pants were a major hit, paired with a diaphanous dupatta. This trend was perhaps made popular by actress Sadhana who was an undeniable style icon of the 1960s.
Kurta sets became the most preferred choice for both casual and celebratory occasions, as they proved to be functional and stylish. This decade also saw a major shift in colours; a palette of deep saturated hues with a mix of vibrant shades like orange blossomed as Indian fashion moved towards a more bold and experimental approach.
Much like today, Bollywood played a major role in deciding the trends back in the 1960s. The Sadhana cut peaked in popularity to an extent where everyone wanted fringes like hers. The actress first sported this hairstyle while filming Love in Simla and the hairdo was suggested to her by the director R.K. Nayyar who got inspired by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
The bangs were complemented with a beehive hairdo in a bun or open hair to give an illusion of more volume. These strong hairstyles were donned with elongated winged liner, drawing more attention to the eyes. Sharmila Tagore and Saira Banu were other legendary fashion icons of that time, who popularised the look with soft nude lips, fuller brows and blushed cheeks.
Returning to the Roots: 1970s
During the 1970s, also known as the retro era, India witnessed numerous cultural advancements, but the society also started looking back at the cultures of the past. After a major shift in fashion for over two decades, this was the time when heritage silhouettes made a raging comeback. As women started stepping out more into the social sphere, practical occasion wear gained fame. Their sartorial needs now had a pragmatic approach, showcasing Western influences on traditional silhouette.
The 1970s was a time for understated elegance. In contrast to the flamboyant hairdos of the past decade, during this era, women opted for flatter hairstyles. The bouffant hair was still prevalent but less voluminous. Historic silhouettes got a retro revamp, with shorter lengths that allowed women to feel comfortable and glamorous. Anarkalis were now hemmed above the ankle and tunics were fashioned to an above-knee length. As a result, richly embroidered Anarkalis, shararas and farshi ghararas became a prominent trend, and women preferred them for all kinds of festive celebrations.
As cultures of the past and present started coming into blissful harmony, fashion connoisseurs of the retro decade opted for time-honoured jewels like kundan to go with their ensembles. Another revered relic of Indian jewellery that rose to fame during this time was jadau. The craft which thrived under the Mughal patronage, gradually became a part of bridal trousseau and family heirlooms. Alongside progressive approaches towards fashion and lifestyle, the 1970s also presented a looking glass into the past. As a result, festive style became all about balancing effortless elegance with timeless style.
This story transports us through the transformative epochs of Indian fashion, each decade leaving an indelible mark on our sartorial history. This editorial is a celebration of the evolution of Indian fashion through the years – from the sharp sophistication of the 1950s to the bold liberation of the 1960s, and the retro elegance of the 1970s – all styles as timeless as iconic. As we dive into these vintage festive looks, we are reminded of the timelessness of bygone eras, inspiring us to infuse our modern wardrobes with the unparalleled charm of classics.