At Lakmē Fashion Week, Chola The Label’s “Echoes in Monochrome” unfolded as a considered study in restraint and release, where black and white shifted beyond opposition into a continuum. The runway assumed a performative quality, with movement and form navigating the tension between simplicity and complexity.
We caught up with founder and designer Sohaya Misra to discuss this exploration of nuance and how ambiguity continues to shape both the collection and what lies ahead.
FL: Black and white are often seen as absolutes. How did you use them to express nuance instead?
CTL: Black and white may seem absolute, but we’ve explored the feeling in between. Instead of defining them as extremes, we let them blur into each other through movement and layering – creating a quiet flow of contrast and softness beyond just two tones.
FL: There’s a strong interplay of simplicity and complexity in the collection. How did you balance these opposing forces in the design process?
CTL: We kept the base really simple and clean, and then built in dimension through construction, layering, and detail. It’s about letting contrasting energies coexist – structure with fluidity, simplicity with complexity – so it feels easy and effortless, while still holding depth beneath the surface.
FL: What does the “grey area” actually mean to you?
CTL: The grey area is where things feel most honest. It’s a space where nothing is fully resolved, where multiple emotions and perspectives can exist at once. That openness is what makes it feel real and personal.
FL: In a time of fast, definitive narratives, how important is it for fashion to embrace ambiguity and nuance?
CTL: I think it’s really important. Fashion has the ability to slow things down and create space for complexity, where not everything has to be clearly defined. Embracing ambiguity allows for more honest expression, where pieces can be interpreted in different ways and feel personal to the wearer.
FL. How does this collection shape the direction of what comes next for you?
CTL: This collection has helped me trust my instincts and focus on what I really want to do. I want to keep working with the fabrics I love, stay intuitive in my process, and continue building layering and detail through construction and emotion – while still keeping things minimal yet expressive.
Images Courtesy: Instagram/fdciofficial