At Lakmē Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI, designer Anurag Gupta brought a deeply personal story to the runway with Artisanal, a collection inspired by Biskohar, his hometown in Uttar Pradesh. Beyond its exploration of unconventional materials and architectural silhouettes, the collection aimed to create sustainable livelihood opportunities for women in the community, addressing the economic barriers and limited access to alternatives that have historically drawn many into sex work.
At its centre was water hyacinth, an invasive aquatic plant often regarded as an environmental nuisance. In collaboration with Earthomadic Foundation, Gupta explored its potential as a craft material, translating its raw textures into contemporary garments. The result brought together material experimentation, artisanal skill and a larger social purpose.
The collection also introduced Project Biskohar, an initiative envisioned by Label Anurag Gupta to create alternative livelihood opportunities for women through craft-based training and access to markets. “For me, it was about returning to a place whose story deserved to be seen differently,” he shares. “We wanted to create meaningful opportunities for the women of Biskohar through craft and bring their skills to the forefront.”
Translating the concept into wearable garments required a balance between experimentation and functionality. Raw textures and structured silhouettes reflected the material’s character, while repeated fittings helped refine each piece. “We kept returning to each garment, questioning both its practicality and the narrative it was meant to convey,” Gupta says. “The material had to lead the design, but it also had to work within the brand’s design language.”
For the designer, Artisanal also marked an opportunity to explore craftsmanship in a new way within his own label. “I wanted to showcase craftsmanship in a way we had not explored before, even within our own brand,” he says. More importantly, he hopes the initiative will grow into a lasting source of income for the women involved. “This is only the beginning. Trust takes time, and we hope to build a lasting relationship that allows them to see craft as a source of sustained livelihood.”
Ultimately, Artisanal looks beyond the runway to consider how fashion can support communities and create opportunities through craft. As Gupta puts it, “Ultimately, I wanted to show how fashion, when approached with intent, can move beyond aesthetics to create meaningful opportunities for the people behind the craft.”