The London Fashion Week geared up for round 2, and all week long, our feeds were filled with all things glam. From Simone Rocha channelling balletcore with an elegant yet bold touch, Harris Reed’s larger-than-life outfits that swept us away into a whole different dimension, to Nensi Dojaka’s collab with Calvin Klein that intrigued the feminine edge, this edition of London Fashion Week left us wanting more.
Celebrating a remarkable 40 years, the event continues to be the premier stage for unveiling the season’s most coveted trends. London Fashion Week has enveloped the city in a palpable fashion frenzy and what better way to dish everything that is currently going on through the lens of an ardent fashion admirer? Here are some standout designers whose noteworthy styles have made it difficult for us to stop talking about.
HARRI
Harri KS has created noise far and wide by crafting one-of-kind gravity-defying inflatable silhouettes. But this season, it’s not just solely about creating a buzz, the brand focused more about making it accessible. The designer took a fresh turn blending his artistic vision with a more wearable, everyday style. The runway witnessed a mix of the label’s signature artistic pieces and edgy essentials.
Ahluwalia
The British-Nigerian-Indian designer’s collection paid an ode to her ‘Home Sweet Home’. Drawing inspiration from her African roots, the 31-look lineup showcased an intricate range of floral crochet with an eclectic mix of geometric patterns. The elegant assemblage was fused with undertones of athletic inspiration like cross-stitched ball-gowns, asymmetrical knitted tops, and football gear with striking ornamentation. A touch of nostalgic flair was added when prints inspired by Ahluwalia’s grandparents’ wallpaper were incorporated with colour pairings of ecru, terracotta, and amber, imitating her diverse upbringing.
Kanika Goyal
Kanika Goyal’s label presented fashion as a joyful and expressive art form by featuring the collection Playfulness. The collection’s theme stemmed from a reminiscence of the golden childhood days. Keeping it free from perfection, the pieces spotlighted creativity with an avant-garde spin. From ebullient pieces to classic boxy suits, the overall lineup was reimagined with a carefree exploration.
Rocky Star
Indian designer Rocky Star displayed a collection for London Fashion Week’s SS25 that skillfully blended contemporary glitz and grace. The collection included dramatic contrasts that expertly combined vintage tailoring with a romantic twist. The silhouettes spotlighted a hint of cottagecore whimsy, adorned with sparkling sequins. Models moved under the runway lights as a captivating interplay of light and texture was created by the heavy pink sequins that dominated the show on straight gowns, tiered dresses, and sheer mini-dresses.
Aartivijay Gupta
Aartivijay Gupta transported London to a Kashmir state of mind with her collection, “Postcards to Kashmir.” This lineup beautifully showcases linen as a key material, paying homage to the region’s rich cultural heritage. The lush green landscapes and exquisite architecture are mirrored in the silhouettes, creating a captivating aesthetic. From anti-fit printed blazers to oversized lapels and floor-length mesh dresses, each piece reflects the striking amalgamation of Kashmir’s beauty and uber-cool styles.
Harris Reed
Harris Reed’s collection, ‘Encore’, unfurled like a fantastical story, full of whimsy and wonder by bringing the power of theatricality. Each silhouette exuded grandeur, with designs featuring winged corsetry and intricately constructed crinolines fashioned from exquisite, rare, vintage materials. The exaggerated curves and structured pieces accentuate the innate femininity in the designs. These elements combined to form a breathtakingly beautiful presentation that truly stole our hearts.
Simone Rocha
Who said tutus were reserved for the ballerinas? Simone Rocha has just incorporated them into her lineup, giving it a whole new dimension. The collection felt like a celebration of balletcore with sheer pink overlays, statement bows and a blush pink palette while simultaneously showcasing the designer balancing coquette and melancholy. The use of vivid reds and black cut through the prudish innocence, featuring a dark deconstruction. The introduction to daring design coups and bringing back texture and dimension were some of the newer elements that the runway witnessed.
SS- Daley
All eyes were riveted on Steve Stokey-Daley as he launched his womenswear collection, “No Suffix, Prefix or Quotes.” This collection cut straight to the essence of his craftsmanship, drawing inspiration from the life, lovers, work, and uniform of British artist Gluck. Maintaining a strong connection to classic medieval aesthetics, the crowning element were the designs featuring hand-beaded silhouettes that created a distinctive pixilated effect, highlighting the brand’s exceptional attention to detail.
Chopova Lovena x Helleman’s Mayonnaise
The intriguing collaboration felt like Victorian era was reimagined with a non-conformist edge. From carabiner suspended skirts to metal to studded and spiked leather outwear coupled with tartan skirts felt the designer was rooting to bring back punk fashion to the mainstream. But that’s not it, the runway featured a Margaret bag that was designed to carry a jar of Hellmann’s Mayonnaise that absolutely caught us off-guard, in the best way possible.
Nensi Dojaka x Calvin Klien
Nensi Dojaka made a smashing comeback after nearly two years, and the collection was simply breathtaking. Celebrating the feminine essence with minimal yet sensual silhouettes, the collection showcased a juxtaposition of delicate fabrics and bold silhouettes. The collaboration just hits the spot since no one nails lingerie better than Calvin Klien. The team up made innerwear feel like a glamorous second skin, banking on an easy yes from any one who plans to channel their sensuous side.
Paul Costello
A true veteran whose label has continued to keep us hooked with the runway looks since the inception of London Fashion Week. This year the brand featured its new collection, “Le ciel est bleu”, alongside announcing its first ever bridal and hosiery collection. The assemblage made the French spring its muse and all about getting infatuated by the beauty of it all. The ensembles gives an ode to the girlish gallic glam featuring a pastel palette, ruffles, short hemlines while incorporating a 90s blowout hair-do, that gave it a youthful effervescense. Making it tres jolie like the French would say!
Richard Quinn
When London-born designer Richard Quinn presented his AW24 collection, it felt like one has trespassed a high-tea gala in the Victorian era. His show peaked with exuberance and luxury, while the theme was centred around special occasions. The garments were doused in the rich culture and punctuated with rosettes and bows. The craftmanship-spotlighting work, encrusted with sequins and embellishments, lent the silhouettes an otherworldly charm, while the opera coats and sweeping floral gowns flawlessly added that maximalist flair that resonates with the label’s longstanding fascination.
JW Anderson
By limiting himself to just four materials – leather, cashmere, silk, and sequins—JW Anderson’s womenswear collection demonstrated his remarkable ability to create magic with simplicity. The runway showcased a fresh reinterpretation of mini dresses, featuring eccentric silhouettes paired with unzipped boots. Notably, one standout piece displayed a printed paragraph from Clive Bell’s book ‘Art’, while the spaceship-like skirts perfectly captured the essence of modern elegance. Anderson’s innovative approach proves that creativity knows no bounds, even with limited materials.