Diving into the delicate world of Designer Shantanu Goenka as he decodes the dynamics of his couture label that leverages the rich artisanal talent of Bengal.

An alumnus of National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) Kolkata’s inaugural batch and with an award for the most creative designer, he started his eponymous label specialising in haute couture, bridal and occasion wear for men and women. Today, the brand Shantanu Goenka is synonymous with its luxurious detailing, enchanting embroideries and Swarovski bling. Read the excerpts as the Kolkata-based designer talks about local talent, the no-compromise couture grammar and the art of reviving clothes.

(Edited excerpts)

FL: Could you tell us about the legacy of craftsmanship that defines your label?

SG: We, as a brand, are popularly known for its detailed and intricate embroideries, drawing inspiration from around the corners of the globe. We have been working with some of the finest craftsmen in Bengal, some of whom are third-generation karigars and hail from the family of ustaads, meaning master craftsmen. We try to revive and promote embroideries and use them in sustainable clothing. Some of these embroideries date back to 20 years ago when we had first started and are still as good as new.

FL: How has your NIFT training shaped your haute couture label?

SG: NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology) has nurtured and polished my talent and taught me the tricks of the trade. It has taught me to be self-dependent professionally and given me a focus and boost, as I had always been very keen on a haute couture path.

FL: As a Kolkata-based designer, how has the city influenced your design journey and signature?

SG: I am proud of being a Kolkata-based designer. When I first launched my label, there were very few designers from Kolkata and not many had made it into haute couture. But I believed in the craftsmanship of Bengal and its recognition and appreciation in the world of fashion. Bengal has always been deeply rooted in art and it might have a slow work culture but the output is brilliant. Just what is needed in haute couture.

FL: Could you take us through some of the statement pieces across the haute couture and bridal wear segments for men and women?

SG: There are many statement pieces. All our pieces from the petite point collection are statement pieces in their own right. It takes a minimum of three months to craft one ensemble. A close second would be our pashmina lehenga, which is done on the finest pashminas in Kashmir and then further embroidered with the most intricate tilla work at our workshop in Kolkata. This also requires a three-month making time. There are other favourites as well: our gara sherwanis, Kashmiri embroidered shawls with coordinated kurtas for men, mochi lehengas and saris … oh I could go on and on.

FL: What drives your love for Swarovski crystals and do they lend singularity to your creations? Is there anything unique in the treatment?

SG: I have always loved the sparkle of glittering crystals. Every time I saw women dressed in diamonds, I always wanted to transcend them into garments and what better than crystals. I treat them in a more delicate and natural way. Dusting them on the surface or embedding them in foliage and motifs. We try to blend all our crafts with millions of tiny crystal components.

FL: Could you tell us about some of the exotic fabrics that you source from around the world? The brand website uses the term ‘exotic’ to describe them-could you decode the usage?

SG: Yes, we love using diverse fabrics, which we source from around the world. We work with some of the best textile and lace manufacturers from around the globe. These are mainly bespoke and one-off pieces. One had to see to believe the magic of these fabrics. Some of them undergo layers of treatments like laser cut, appliqué, embroidery, overprinting and feather or crystal application.

FL: Embroideries are huge at Shantanu Goenka. What stands out?

SG: Yes, we are known for our embroidery. Our clients can pick out my pieces from a crowd. Our embroideries are clear, uncluttered, neat and well-defined. We house an array of embroideries at any given point of time ranging from chikankaris, petite points, mochi, Kashmiri, Parsi and Chinese Gara, gota, micro mirrors, fine zardozi, our signature pearl work, and so on. Every piece stands out as they are very different from one another. You can pick an entire wardrobe without being repetitive and monotonous.

FL: Who is your target audience and how do you ensure to appeal to their taste?

SG: Our target audience is one who can relate to our work. One who understands the research, labour and the soul, which has gone into the entire process of reviving and sustaining our embroideries. I have clients bringing back pieces from their wardrobe they had bought decades back, asking us to resize and refurbish so that they could wear them again. My clients are not into fast fashion and they are ready to spend a little extra in order to have collectibles in their wardrobe, which they can pass down from generation to generation.

FL: Where do you think lies the value and appeal of couture?

SG: The value and appeal of couture is not just in creating larger-than-life silhouettes or having a hefty price tag for something which is not worth the price. It’s not about mass production of garments or machine-made embroideries touched up with lots of bling to give it a hand-crafted look in order to cut costs. Couture is all about customising a dream outfit for a client. Something which is exclusive and one can be proud of owning it. It’s about laborious workmanship and top-end products. You cannot compromise with couture.

FL: What are some of the biggest trends in couture that will reign this autumn-winter?

SG: Thread work is going to be a very strong influence this winter as brides want subtler clothes. Purples and shades of yellow will be big, and traditional clothing is going to be in demand as they are forever. Our embroideries this season are more delicate and finer mimicking an imprint or painting. Tonal bling is in. Desi gowns are a big no and lehengas and shararas are gaining popularity. Saris are hot this season.

“My clients are not into fast fashion and they are ready to spend a little extra in order to have collectibles in their wardrobe, which they can pass down from generation to generation.”

SHANTANU GOENKA

“The value and appeal of couture is not just in creating larger-than-life silhouettes or having a hefty price tag for something which is not worth the price … Couture is all about customising a dream outfit for a client. Something which is exclusive and one can be proud of owning it. It’s about laborious workmanship and top-end products.”

SHANTANU GOENKA