Presenting fashion influencer Siddharth Batra, designer Rahul Mishra’s muse, as he slips into a melange of moody, artistic and gender-fluid creations.
In conversation with designer Rahul Mishra, who tells us how craft anchors him, why his ideal muse has to be culturally informed and compassionate, and why the modern Indian man is making bold choices.
(Edited excerpts)
FL: Artists are known to have their muses, and since the process of creation in couture is akin to art, what is your take on the relationship a fashion designer has with their muse?
RM: In fashion and art, people tend to have an anchor point that is their muse – this may be a friend, a celebrity or a partner. For me, however, craft happens to be that anchor point. I feel deeply inspired by the abstract nuances of ‘technique’ and ‘application’, by art movements and the way they make us feel. That is my ultimate muse.
Additionally, it is the individual personalities of the people that surround me and inspire me to create something new each time – the way people carry themselves, the way they express themselves through fashion. My ultimate muse is an intellectual; they are well-travelled, experimental and confident. The concept is built up of people from different walks of life who embrace their uniquenesses through fashion. It is their virtues and sentiments that inspire us to create what we do.
FL: Who is your muse when it comes to menswear and why?
RM: I feel inspired by a lot of amazing people that I meet at work or otherwise. The way they let their personalities shine through without consideration of the ‘expected’ and treat clothes as a catalyst to put their thoughts out. As a brand, it is these key characteristics that make a ‘modern’ man for us. Siddharth (Batra), for instance, fits the brief perfectly.
FL: Could you define what the Rahul Mishra muse embodies?
RM: I believe that the Rahul Mishra muse is an intellectual person that is aware of themselves and what surrounds them. They are well-informed and culturally educated. They are opinionated and navigate society with unmatched strength and vigor. This person is also kind, compassionate and empathetic; someone who is genuinely mindful of the environment and the life that thrives on it. In saying this, I believe that the Rahul Mishra muse demonstrates these values with their sense of fashion as well.
FL: Having just wrapped up your fifth consecutive show at Paris Couture Week, how has the global Rahul Mishra fashion story grown?
RM: Before showcasing for five consecutive seasons at the Haute Couture Week in Paris we had been showcasing our RTW (ready-to wear) collections at Paris Fashion Week. Hence, for several years, our brand has been continuously finding and establishing its niche in the global scenario for a while now. We have been able to cultivate the kind of ‘fashion’ that is closer to art and is independent of trends, seasons and gender- based expectations. The garments are relevant in the same way to a person in France, as it is to someone in India, Japan or the US. Several structural pieces from our Couture collections are equally befitting a museum gallery, as they would a human body – woman, man or otherwise. And I understand that this has been acknowledged and appreciated critically in all the different markets. Now with our partnership with Reliance Brands Limited, we look forward to charting new territories through a new brand that we’ll be building.
FL: As a couturier, you have not only showcased Indian couture on the global stage, you have also redefined the rigor of craftsmanship. Where do you draw your creative sustenance from?
RM: The inspiration for my designs comes from my first-hand experiences and personal memory. I am deeply touched by the little details that build an experience – architecture, vegetation, colours of the sky, and the air around me – the way physical elements interact to shape that experience. Over the past decade, we’ve showcased several collections in both Paris and India that borrow from memory and nostalgia but some highlights would be – ‘Home’, our Couture Spring 2020 collection, which was heavily influenced by my visit to Soneva Fushi in the Maldives. The experience of barefoot luxury at their pristine beaches and the exquisite sunsets are visuals that still live in my mind rent-free. More recently, our Couture Fall 2021 collection, ‘The Shape of Air’, aimed to articulate my visit to Santorini, Greece.
FL: What would you like to say about the evolution of men’s fashion in India?
RM: If we look at the history of men’s fashion, we may discover that men across the world, especially in India, have been fairly flamboyant with their style over a century ago. The boundaries between men’s and women’s fashion were not as stark, not to mention how expressive the clothes used to be. While it may have become simplified to adopt a more utilitarian approach due to several circumstances, men’s fashion today is reversing the curve by the day. It is the time when men are more self-aware and are able to express themselves through bolder choices. And in India, men have the advantage of our cultural heritage with androgynous silhouettes, jewellery and drapes being a part of their roots. Today, with rising awareness we see people refreshingly embrace those aspects of their roots.
FL: What do the evolving aspirations, ambitions and outlook of a consumer in the menswear space reflect today?
RM: Indian men today are embracing change a lot more and quite boldly so. Every coming day I meet men from age groups ranging between 20s to even 60s who are willing to wear bright colours, flared silhouettes and floral embroideries that we create. And these are people that would otherwise only dress in tailored suits. This could be owing to an impact of evolving social dynamics, and it’s quite heartwarming to witness this development.