A maestro of fashion, crafting tradition and panache with poise.

Nupur Kanoi stands as a visionary force in fashion, effortlessly melding the allure of tradition with contemporary panache. Her distinctive style harmonizes classic silhouettes like saris, kurtas, and lehenga skirts with a modern twist, forming the very DNA of her brand. With a keen eye for blending tradition and modernity, Nupur has carved a niche for herself in the industry. She discusses the art of striking a delicate balance between these elements while maintaining her unique style, her affinity for the enchanting mix of occasion wear and resort wear, and the inspiration behind her latest bridal collection. From navigating the challenges of the Covid-19 pandemic to the constant wellspring of creation, Nupur’s journey attests to her dedication and innovation, adorning not only celebrities but also empowering wearers with comfort, confidence, and a fusion of cultural heritage and modernity. Seamlessly transcending boundaries, her designs fuse occasion wear with resort wear, exemplified by her latest creation ‘SITAARA’, which encapsulates this ethos through intricate embroideries and inspirations drawn from her surroundings. With each collection, Nupur Kanoi translates her creative vision into reality on the catwalk, leaving an indelible imprint on the fashion landscape.

FL: An enchanting mix of occasion wear and resort wear can be seen in your collections. Do you have a special liking towards either of those categories? If yes, why?

NK: Embroideries have always fascinated me over the years. Working with traditional techniques with a modern twist, is a natural habit. Resort wear is a personal favourite that keeps the spirit light, easy and fun. Most of our work is a constant effort to seamlessly marry the two.

FL: You recently unveiled your first bridal collection ‘SITAARA’. What was your inspiration and motivation to work on it?

NK: ‘SITAARA’ is a demi-couture line that is contemporary and not just limited to bridal couture. The idea was to create chic Indian wear for summer soirees and destination weddings for the modern Indian bride tribe. It’s a celebration of colours that are inherent to an Indian wedding be it pop or pastel shades. The embroidery is whimsical yet intricate. The silhouettes are easy and effortless and can be styled ingeniously as separates.

” I think the hunger to create endlessly is the biggest reward after every new collection. Saturation is my biggest fear.”

NUPUR KANOI

FL: Collaborations often lead to inspiration. If you were to collaborate with another designer, artist or brand, who would you choose?

NK: I’ve always wanted to work with indigenous tattoo artists from local villages of Gujarat and Rajasthan. Growing up, surrounded by village ladies who often exuded extreme individuality and strength even in their ‘Ghoonghats’, has made me long wanting to dabble in their stories. Soon!

FL: What has been the most challenging moment in your career as a fashion designer, and how did you overcome it?

NK: Covid-19 was possibly the most challenging period in my career as a fashion designer and a fashion enthusiast. It took a lot of grit, belief and staying true to our intrinsic design philosophy to overcome it. The biggest challenge was to restart from ground zero and rebuild.

FL: On the flip side, what has been the most rewarding experience so far in your journey as a designer?

NK: I wouldn’t undermine any experience as less rewarding in this journey. Every hurdle when overcome has been equally rewarding and most importantly a big learning. I think the hunger to create endlessly is the biggest reward after every new collection. Saturation is my biggest fear.

FL: Your collections often tell a story or convey a particular message. Could you elaborate on your favourite message you have conveyed through your designs?

NK: I’m mostly inspired by my surroundings, be it on my travels or just generally looking out of the window, whatever catches my eye and starts a story. It’s been an evolving journey of stories. One of my favourites was Lost and Found in Africa, a collection we showcased in 2017 at Lakme. A solo trip to Africa, a country so raw and beautiful with no person to share my thoughts with, was the most exhilarating visual experiences that I can vividly remember, that translated into a collection that I hold very close to my heart. It kick-started a new journey of self-discovery. Most recently ‘Sheesha’ talks about mirrors in a self-obsessed world and ‘UKIYO’ our resort line is all about living in the moment, detached from the troubles of life and freedom of sexual expression.

FL: Your designs often incorporate intricate embroidery and rich fabrics. How do you select these materials, and what is your process for designing the intricate embellishments?

NK: It all starts with a visual spark, which then takes me to the corners of busy crowded markets where I spend hours rummaging through materials and embellishments with an open mind for experimentation. I love this process of getting down and dirty. Later this treasure is unpacked in the office and then begins the most interesting part of creating patterns and intricate embroideries with a new direction.

FL: How do you balance creativity with commercial viability in your collections? What are the factors you consider when making design decisions for the market?

NK: Luckily this has never been a struggle, I have always believed in creating clothes that flatter the human body, while keeping it artistically invigorating.

FL: Your designs often exude a sense of empowerment and confidence. How do you envision your clothing empowering the individuals who wear them?

NK: Confidence comes with exposure and evolution. Our designs exude a sense of confidence in comfort. They flatter all body types and are for women who are deeply rooted in culture yet spinning a modern-day life with utmost ease. It’s for women who are comfortable in their own skin and inspire other women. And above all, the stories that make the design, the numerous hands it changes in the process of creation, to us, are empowering for the wearer.

FL: Your designs have been worn by celebrities and prominent personalities. Could you share some memorable moments when you saw your creations on influential figures?

NK: It’s always exciting to see your designs worn by prominent personalities you have grown up emulating, be it in cinema or art. But if I were to share the most memorable moments, they would be from runway shows, it’s that moment, your vision is suddenly reality. Nothing beats the catwalk.

Text by: Sanskriti Sharma