There’s something thrilling about claiming your favourite spot in a multiplex with a bucket of buttery popcorn in hand while watching stories come alive on the big screen. Time seems to fly as you’re transported to a world where fantasy reigns. At the heart of every great movie lies attention to detail, and costumes play a crucial role in adding to the magic on screen.
With a language of its own, costume design gives you an insight into a character’s role and personality even before they utter a word. It can evoke emotion and give subtle hints to the audience to create a perception of the story.
It doesn’t just end there, whether it’s an iconic outfit worn by the lead actress or even a villain, when you spot something unique or similar to your style, you can’t help but want to recreate it in your wardrobe. Case in point: Alia Bhatt’s serenely shaded sarees in Rocky Aur Rani Ki Prem Kahani caused such a stir that she auctioned a few of them, sparking a trend in fabric shops. Similarly, Shah Rukh Khan’s feathered hat and leather jacket from Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge have become instantly recognisable; even at a Halloween party, it’s a no-brainer.
Let’s take a trip down memory lane and revisit some costume designs that are so iconic that we bet you can guess the movie just by looking at them.
Mughal-E-Azam
K. Asif’s Mughal-E-Azam is a magnum opus amongst a legion of period dramas that is now considered a cult classic. The 1960 film is not just known for its larger-than-life set impeccably placed in the setting of the Mughal era, but also the unforgettable ensembles. In the song ‘Pyaar Kiya Toh Darna Kya’, Madhubala, who plays Anarkali, wore a bodice that featured an inverted curve panelling right below the bust, which is considered a signature component in the silhouette with the same name. Intricately embellished ensembles crafted from silk brocades encapsulated the essence of the grandeur of the empire sartorially. The characters exceptionally layered silhouettes with traditional ear cuff jhumkas and feather hats designed by supremely talented designer, Jaggi, are just a few of the standout features that have cemented their place in the Indian film industry and will continue to be celebrated for years to come.
Devdas
Neeta Lulla, the couturier renowned for her artisanal brilliance, cemented her place in history with her work on the megahit Devdas – a film that remains a hallmark of Indian cinema. Based on a Bengali novel, the movie centred around a tragic yet archetypal love triangle, and Lulla’s costumes played a crucial role in elevating the narrative. One of the most striking visuals was the transformation of Aishwarya Rai’s character, Paro, into a Thakurain, where she wore a cobalt blue saree. What made this saree truly spectacular was its intricate adornment with pearls, kundans, and the opulent zardozi craft, giving it a rare, heritage-worthy appeal. The iconic Dola Re Dola song is another standout moment, with Bengali culture and tradition woven into every minute detail of the costumes. The leading ladies, Madhuri Dixit (Chandramukhi) and Aishwarya Rai (Paro), wore red and white sarees featuring delicate embroidery that made them appear like living portraits.
Guzaarish
Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s Guzaarish, a poignant romantic drama, is undoubtedly a standout when it comes to listing the best costumes in cinema. Designed by the visionary Sabyasachi, who has an unparalleled understanding of what women love in fashion, the wardrobe reflects a distinct Edwardian aesthetic. The ensembles encapsulated a seamless fusion of art and fashion. Aishwarya Rai’s character, Sofia, a compassionate caregiver, is dressed in a way that radiates vintage charm. Her wardrobe features voluminous skirts, deep necklines adorned with lace bralettes, sheer lantern sleeves, dupatta scarves, and aprons cinched with corset-detailed belts. The deep blues, rich reds, and maroons she wears resonate with the film’s sombre mood. The silhouettes, combined with her braided hair styled with flowers, evoke a sense of homage to the way Frida Kahlo embodied her own distinctive, timeless style.
Dirty Picture
The character of Silk Smita in The Dirty Picture would not have come alive without the crucial contribution of Niharika Khan, whose costume designs were integral to the film’s success. The film was inspired by the life of South Indian sensation Silk Smita, portrayed by the powerhouse Vidya Balan. Set in the 1980s, the movie delves into the life of an actress widely known for her bold roles, marked by her unflinching confidence and unapologetic attitude. Khan’s sultry costume designs embody this fearless spirit, capturing the essence of the character with striking accuracy. The costumes placed emphasis on the midriff, often regarded as an erogenous zone, with scooped and plunging necklines paired with shorter blouses that created the illusion of a longer torso and accentuated the character’s curves. Additionally, the styling drew inspiration from the ’60s and ’70s, incorporating frills and polka dots, further enhancing the film’s nostalgic and bold aesthetic.
Bombay Velvet
There may have been mixed opinions regarding the styling of Bombay Velvet, but for us, it was undoubtedly in a league of its own. Ace costume designer Niharika Khan worked her magic once again. The film vividly portrays retro Bombay while internalising the ethos of new modernism. The movie is set in the cinematic style of American film noir, spotlighting an era when Art Deco, jazz, Austin motor cars, and Tommy guns were in vogue. The film explores a variety of cultures, including Anglo-Indian, Parsi, and Goan Portuguese roots, all of which the costume designer attempts to adapt to. What particularly stood out was Anushka Sharma and Raveena Tandon’s on-stage costumes. With the gloriously detailed and textured silhouettes adorned with strings of pearls, cascading sequins, feathers, and tulles, opulence dripped from every detail.
Bajirao Mastani
Anju Modi, the brilliant designer behind the costumes for Bajirao Mastani, beautifully honoured the rich traditions of two powerful dynasties – the Peshwas and the Mughals. The designs elegantly oscillate between these distinct cultures, reflecting the grandeur of both. The story brings to life the immortalised romance between the Maratha ruler, Peshwa Bajirao, and Mastani. Transported back in time, the actors are draped in luxurious textiles, with each design seamlessly conveying the magnificence of the era. A central theme of the film is the contrasting traditions of the characters. One particularly poignant scene features Mastani wearing a Paithani saree, gifted by Kashibai, symbolising her acceptance into the family. Additionally, her gold ensemble in the iconic Deewani Mastani song highlights the festive atmosphere and her emotional reunion with Bajirao. Moreover, the movie showcased an array of meticulously embroidered craftsmanship featuring mirror work, regal brooches, and heavily layered silhouettes that encapsulated the charm of that era.
Archies
Despite the intense competition from superheroes, Archies has remained one of the most iconic comic series of all time. Peaking in 1974, these beloved characters have captured the hearts of audiences for decades, which led Zoya Akhtar to create an Indianized version of the story. A key element of the Archies universe is its distinctive sartorial elements. Under the creative direction of Pooramrita Singh, a visual masterpiece was brought to life, thanks to her exceptional talent for intricate detailing and her sharp eye for thrifting archival pieces. The screen was filled with vintage prints, pinafores, knits, and upholstery-inspired embellishments. The moodboard vividly reflected the Anglo-Indian community of the 1960s, and this era was beautifully portrayed in the styling. Veronica’s aristocratic look showcased her access to 60s high fashion, Ethel dressed in quirky prints, which highlighted her eclectic and unique style, while Dilton’s geeky persona was further accentuated by checks and blazers. Minute details in each character’s costumes contributed to their standout screen presence throughout the series.