A celebration of forgotten forts, the resilience of nature, and queens of the past. Designer Surbhi Shah unpacks the inspiration behind her new collection, where colour, craft, and the quiet power of heritage converge.

In an era where fleeting trends often dictate what’s the style du jour, Surbhi Shah stands firm in her devotion to heritage. A quiet but compelling force in Indian festive wear, the designer’s creations marry old-world opulence with modern sensibility. With Tijara, her latest collection, Shah draws deeply from the well of memory, architecture, and craft, creating ensembles as enduring as they are enchanting.

In the comforting corridors of her childhood, a young Surbhi caught onto a reverence for intricacy and tradition, which became the bedrock of her design philosophy. “The inception of Label Surbhi Shah traces back to my childhood, watching my mother drape her sarees with effortless poise,” she shares. “Her attention to detail and innate sense of style left a lasting impression on me – it was my first introduction to the beauty and depth of Indian craftsmanship.”

What emerged was a label deeply rooted in legacy, yet boldly personal in interpretation. Craft, for Shah, is not decorative – it is an essential element of her design narrative. Her creations often feature a convergence of time-honoured techniques like Gota Patti, Zardozi, Marori, Aari-Taari, and the more nuanced Petal & Pitton work. “It’s an intuitive process, guided by the story each piece wants to tell,” she says. “Some pieces call for the structured opulence of Zardosi, while others flow better with the soft intricacy of Resham or the sparkle of Gota Patti.” 

What Shah thrives on the most when designing is the freedom to experiment – to bring together styles that traditionally may not have shared the same space. “For me, each garment is a canvas where craft, creativity, and legacy coexist. It’s not just about preserving these age-old techniques, but reinterpreting them with a fresh, personal perspective.” The result? An interplay of textures and traditions, and an embroidered language that speaks to both the past and present.

This confluence is visible in Tijara, a collection steeped in architectural memory and emotion. Named after the historic fort that sparked its conception, every masterpiece in the assemblage is crafted with intention and took over six months to bring to life. “The idea for this collection came to me during a visit to Tijara Fort,” she explains. “As I walked through its corridors, ran my fingers across the faded frescoes, and stood still under its grand arches, I felt an unspoken connection.” This experience translated into a visual palette rich with sandstone warmth, dusky greens, and sun-washed terracottas. Every motif within the collection – be it floral carvings or lattice windows – echoes a detail from the fort, giving each garment a soulful sense of place.

Silhouettes in Tijara – from billowing shararas to regal Anarkalis – are anchored in heritage but elevated for contemporary ease. Shah’s designs are mindful of movement and comfort, ensuring the grandeur never weighs down the wearer. “Fashion can’t remain static,” shares the designer. “Our lifestyles have changed – we move differently, we live differently – and I believe our clothes should reflect that.”  

“For me, it’s not just about reviving heritage – it’s about making it feel alive, relevant, and truly wearable.”

Shah’s eye for colour remains unapologetically celebratory. “Bright tones like saffron, rani pink, sage green, fuchsia, and mustard are colours we return to often,” she explains. Discussing the enduring appeal of certain silhouettes in festive fashion, she notes, “There are many silhouettes that hold a lasting place in festive fashion, but the saree, for me, stands above all. There’s a reason it has been passed down through generations – it adapts, evolves, and yet somehow remains unchanged in its essence.”

“I aim to strike a balance between staying rooted in tradition and evolving with the moment.”

Despite the occasional flirtation with minimalism, Shah believes that Indian festivewear will always gravitate toward grandeur. “Festive fashion is a celebration of who we are – our roots, our stories, and the incredible craftsmanship that’s been passed down over generations,” she says. 

For her, the crafts incorporated in her work are not merely embellishment – they carry memory, identity, and pride.